Why is my iguana's leg black, white, and shedding abnormally?

It could be a hard shed or local infection (bacterial or fungal). Soak or mist him with warm water. Cleanse the area with diluted betadine or chlorhexidine solution daily. If the spot doesn't resolve or spreads, have him examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet.

The black spots look like skin that did not shed properly. I suggest you check the cage temperature and lighting as that is the number one reason they get lethargic. Also make sure her diet is correct and you are giving her calcium supplements. ( http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Green-Iguana/ )

Without an image or physical exam, it can be difficult to determine exactly what is going on. It could be a bacterial or fungal infection, skin from shedding or trauma (burn, abrasion, etc). Ideally, Iggy should be examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. You can find one using the link below if necessary. http://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661 In the meantime, confirm proper environmental parameters. To much humidity can promote bacterial or fungal overgrowth, too little humidity can lead to difficult sheds. Make sure Iggy cannot come into contact with either the heat lamp or UVB light source. Minor infection can be treated with daily cleanings using diluted Betadine or Chlorhexidine. Clean and sanitize the cage and use plain paper towels as substrate to make cleaning easier until the issue is resolved.

I'm sorry Poseidon is having some problems with his scales. The blackening may be caused by a fungal or bacterial infection. This typically requires changes to the husbandry along with a topical antibiotic or anti-fungal. It is best to have him seen by an exotic vet who can prescribe the appropriate medication. We cannot determine whether or not his normal scaling will return. Scarring will prevent the scales from coming back normally so it is best to address this issue before it worsens.

In most cases, avascular necrosis occurs in toes or the tail. It could be AN, bacterial or fungal infection. An exam would be necessary for diagnosis. For now, provide the proper environment for Zilla, especially adequate humidity. lighting and heat. You can confirm proper environmental parameters using the link below. Daily soaks may help remove any stuck shed. Gently cleanse the area with a diluted betadine or chlorhexidine solution. If necessary, the veterinarian will need to debride the area to allow for healing. Fluker's Repta Boost can be used to supplement the diet until Zilla is eating more o his/her own. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Green-Iguana/

The bumps could be infection (bacterial or fungal). An iguana that won't eat should be examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp veterinarian. Make sure the temp in the enclosure is warm enough. Low temps can affect appetite. Symptoms may indicate MBD (metabolic bone disease), but this should be diagnosed by the vet. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will treat or prevent mild dehydration and may help with shedding. If bloodwork shows low calcium, your vet can dispense or administer calcium supplementation.

Thank you for your question about Loki, and thank you for the photos - they are very helpful! From what I can see in the photos, I think that you are asking about the large white area that extends from the eyes forward to around his nose and down along his mouth. This looks like areas of retained shed on top of new skin. Difficulty shedding, or dysecdysis, is often the result of imperfections in the husbandry. I would recommend starting with soaking Loki in 85-90 F water once daily for 15-20 minutes. While in the bath, you can wet a paper towel or cloth and get the areas of retained shed wet. Use caution around his eyes and nose, however, as we don't want him to feel uncomfortable or panicked. I would also suggest evaluating the husbandry and diet closely. You can consult an online care sheet, such as anapsid.org or Reptiles Magazine, and see if there are any areas that you may need to make adjustments. Common areas that require adjustment include lighting (UV lights need to be changed every 4-6 months), temperatures, and humidity/hydration/water. I would also recommend taking Loki into a veterinarian at some point for a wellness examination. Your veterinarian can make recommendations that are tailored to Loki after his physical exam has been performed. I hope that gives you a place to start, and thanks for using Petco Pet Education Center, formerly Petcoach!