My iguana has black spots and scales falling off. Is it an infection?

Without an image or physical exam, it can be difficult to determine exactly what is going on. It could be a bacterial or fungal infection, skin from shedding or trauma (burn, abrasion, etc). Ideally, Iggy should be examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. You can find one using the link below if necessary. http://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661 In the meantime, confirm proper environmental parameters. To much humidity can promote bacterial or fungal overgrowth, too little humidity can lead to difficult sheds. Make sure Iggy cannot come into contact with either the heat lamp or UVB light source. Minor infection can be treated with daily cleanings using diluted Betadine or Chlorhexidine. Clean and sanitize the cage and use plain paper towels as substrate to make cleaning easier until the issue is resolved.

That looks like dysecdysis (abnormal shedding). This is due to improper husbandry like not enough humidity or incorrect temperature but can also be due to infectious causes. Here is a link to an article about this issue and tips on how to remedy it. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Reptile-Health/Diagnosing-and-Treating-Dysecdysis-aka-Retained-Shed/ If you try some home treatment and the issue does not resolve then I suggest you take Scarlett to a reptile veterinarian for a complete exam.

It could be a hard shed or local infection (bacterial or fungal). Soak or mist him with warm water. Cleanse the area with diluted betadine or chlorhexidine solution daily. If the spot doesn't resolve or spreads, have him examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet.

The black spots look like skin that did not shed properly. I suggest you check the cage temperature and lighting as that is the number one reason they get lethargic. Also make sure her diet is correct and you are giving her calcium supplements. ( http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Green-Iguana/ )

In most cases, avascular necrosis occurs in toes or the tail. It could be AN, bacterial or fungal infection. An exam would be necessary for diagnosis. For now, provide the proper environment for Zilla, especially adequate humidity. lighting and heat. You can confirm proper environmental parameters using the link below. Daily soaks may help remove any stuck shed. Gently cleanse the area with a diluted betadine or chlorhexidine solution. If necessary, the veterinarian will need to debride the area to allow for healing. Fluker's Repta Boost can be used to supplement the diet until Zilla is eating more o his/her own. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Green-Iguana/

It is difficult to appreciate the red spots in the images provided. Monitor for lethargy, decreased appetite or spreading of the spots. Clean and sanitize the cage, bowls and hides. Use paper towels as substrate and change it daily. If Beast develops any of the above symptoms, have him examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose and treat illness or injury.

The bumps could be infection (bacterial or fungal). An iguana that won't eat should be examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp veterinarian. Make sure the temp in the enclosure is warm enough. Low temps can affect appetite. Symptoms may indicate MBD (metabolic bone disease), but this should be diagnosed by the vet. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will treat or prevent mild dehydration and may help with shedding. If bloodwork shows low calcium, your vet can dispense or administer calcium supplementation.