Iguana has bad shed, looks infected, not eating. What should I do?

Without an image or physical exam, it can be difficult to determine exactly what is going on. It could be a bacterial or fungal infection, skin from shedding or trauma (burn, abrasion, etc). Ideally, Iggy should be examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. You can find one using the link below if necessary. http://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661 In the meantime, confirm proper environmental parameters. To much humidity can promote bacterial or fungal overgrowth, too little humidity can lead to difficult sheds. Make sure Iggy cannot come into contact with either the heat lamp or UVB light source. Minor infection can be treated with daily cleanings using diluted Betadine or Chlorhexidine. Clean and sanitize the cage and use plain paper towels as substrate to make cleaning easier until the issue is resolved.

The bumps could be infection (bacterial or fungal). An iguana that won't eat should be examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp veterinarian. Make sure the temp in the enclosure is warm enough. Low temps can affect appetite. Symptoms may indicate MBD (metabolic bone disease), but this should be diagnosed by the vet. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will treat or prevent mild dehydration and may help with shedding. If bloodwork shows low calcium, your vet can dispense or administer calcium supplementation.

It could be a hard shed or local infection (bacterial or fungal). Soak or mist him with warm water. Cleanse the area with diluted betadine or chlorhexidine solution daily. If the spot doesn't resolve or spreads, have him examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet.

That looks like dysecdysis (abnormal shedding). This is due to improper husbandry like not enough humidity or incorrect temperature but can also be due to infectious causes. Here is a link to an article about this issue and tips on how to remedy it. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Reptile-Health/Diagnosing-and-Treating-Dysecdysis-aka-Retained-Shed/ If you try some home treatment and the issue does not resolve then I suggest you take Scarlett to a reptile veterinarian for a complete exam.

It looks like a stuck shed. A fungal infection will present differently (raised, irritated, black patches, lethargy, loss of appetite,etc). Try soaking in a warm water bath. You can add Betadine solution until the bath looks like weak tea. This can help prevent or treat mild infection due to a hard shed. See your veterinarian or an experienced herp veterinarian if Anastasia becomes lethargic, loses her appetite or if the tail begins to get strangulated by the shed.

Have him examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet to diagnose and treat any infection related to the loss of the tail. In the meantime, increase tank temps by about 5-10 degrees F, soak daily in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte for 20 minutes. Once he warms up and rehydrates, offer appropriately sized prey. Gutload prey for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. Supplement with a product such as Fluker's Repti-Boost to get weight back on him. You can clean the stump with diluted betadine or chlorhexidine. Use paper towels for substrate until the stump is healed.

Consider having Bud examined by a veterinarian experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose illness or injury. Iguanas should be kept in a large enclosure that is properly heated. A varied diet complete with a multivitamin and calcium supplement will prevent disorders such as metabolic bone disease. At the very least, the vet can confirm Bud is on the road to recovery. Continue with daily soaks. You can use a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. In addition to darky leafy greens and diced vegetables, offer a commercial diet. Zoo Med and Mazuri offer excellent choices. You can read more about iguana care at the link below. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Green-Iguana/