Why is my iguana so tired, acting weird, and has black spots?

Without an image or physical exam, it can be difficult to determine exactly what is going on. It could be a bacterial or fungal infection, skin from shedding or trauma (burn, abrasion, etc). Ideally, Iggy should be examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. You can find one using the link below if necessary. http://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661 In the meantime, confirm proper environmental parameters. To much humidity can promote bacterial or fungal overgrowth, too little humidity can lead to difficult sheds. Make sure Iggy cannot come into contact with either the heat lamp or UVB light source. Minor infection can be treated with daily cleanings using diluted Betadine or Chlorhexidine. Clean and sanitize the cage and use plain paper towels as substrate to make cleaning easier until the issue is resolved.

That looks like dysecdysis (abnormal shedding). This is due to improper husbandry like not enough humidity or incorrect temperature but can also be due to infectious causes. Here is a link to an article about this issue and tips on how to remedy it. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Reptile-Health/Diagnosing-and-Treating-Dysecdysis-aka-Retained-Shed/ If you try some home treatment and the issue does not resolve then I suggest you take Scarlett to a reptile veterinarian for a complete exam.

The bumps could be infection (bacterial or fungal). An iguana that won't eat should be examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp veterinarian. Make sure the temp in the enclosure is warm enough. Low temps can affect appetite. Symptoms may indicate MBD (metabolic bone disease), but this should be diagnosed by the vet. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will treat or prevent mild dehydration and may help with shedding. If bloodwork shows low calcium, your vet can dispense or administer calcium supplementation.

Check the basking temperature and temps on the cool and warm sides. The darkening color may be due to low temps. An iguana will darken, when necessary, to absorb the maximum amount of available heat. The link below has an incredible amount of information regarding all aspects of keeping iguanas. http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/index.html

Thanks for reaching out about Guan. If he is having difficulty using his limbs, a veterinary visit is highly recommended. Metabolic bone disease can result in clinical signs from weakness to fractures. Environmental temperatures should be in the 90-100 under the basking site and at the lowest 70s at night, therefore they should never feel cold. See your local veterinarian as soon as possible. Good luck.

It is difficult to appreciate the red spots in the images provided. Monitor for lethargy, decreased appetite or spreading of the spots. Clean and sanitize the cage, bowls and hides. Use paper towels as substrate and change it daily. If Beast develops any of the above symptoms, have him examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose and treat illness or injury.

There are several possibilities including bacterial or fungal overgrowth. Check the temperature of the enclosure. Tigers do well between 50F and 75F. Anything above 80F for an extended period of time can predispose them to heat stress. Change the substrate completely. Normally, this should be done every 3-4 months. Spot clean poop whenever you can. The best substrate is an organic, pesticide/fertilizer free topsoil or local topsoil. Coconut fiber, or coir, can be used but will require more frequent maintenance or changing. The substrate should be moist but not dripping if you squeeze a handful. Depth should be a minimum of 5 inches. Once any corrections are made, if required, monitor your salamander for more spots. If they return or if your salamander remains lethargic, consider an exam with your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet to diagnose illness or injury.