Can baking soda help iguana shedding? Is free-roaming safe for iguanas?

In most cases, avascular necrosis occurs in toes or the tail. It could be AN, bacterial or fungal infection. An exam would be necessary for diagnosis. For now, provide the proper environment for Zilla, especially adequate humidity. lighting and heat. You can confirm proper environmental parameters using the link below. Daily soaks may help remove any stuck shed. Gently cleanse the area with a diluted betadine or chlorhexidine solution. If necessary, the veterinarian will need to debride the area to allow for healing. Fluker's Repta Boost can be used to supplement the diet until Zilla is eating more o his/her own. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Green-Iguana/

The bumps could be infection (bacterial or fungal). An iguana that won't eat should be examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp veterinarian. Make sure the temp in the enclosure is warm enough. Low temps can affect appetite. Symptoms may indicate MBD (metabolic bone disease), but this should be diagnosed by the vet. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will treat or prevent mild dehydration and may help with shedding. If bloodwork shows low calcium, your vet can dispense or administer calcium supplementation.

Hello. Good question. Mites unfortunately, are not easy to get rid of. You have to treat both the iguana and her environment. It is not recommended that you use any medications on your iguana without speaking to your vet first. Over the counter treatments do not usually work well and can often times be toxic if not used correctly. No matter what treatment you use it will likely take multiple treatments. It is best to obtain treatments directly from your veterinarian. If you do not already have a vet that you work with, this is a veterinary hospital near you where the vets are well versed in treating reptiles: http://chadwellanimalhospital.com/about-us/the-hospital/ You must also treat Li Mai's environment. Remove her from the cage. Throw away and branches or other organic material including the substrate. Soak the bowls and the enclosure itself in a 10:1 dilution of water to bleach. Let is soak for at least an hour but as long as you can. Be sure to get the bleach water in all the crevices. You will probably have to do this twice weekly over the next few months. Please consult with a veterinarian as these mites can be VERY difficult to get rid of. They can cause a myriad of other health problems including issues with shedding, damaged scales, stress, scratching, and more so you need to work together with a vet you trust to make sure all of her husbandry is correct. This includes her diet, the lighting, the temperatures and humidity in the cage. I hope this helps. Best of luck to you and Li Mai! Dr. Amber

It could be a hard shed or local infection (bacterial or fungal). Soak or mist him with warm water. Cleanse the area with diluted betadine or chlorhexidine solution daily. If the spot doesn't resolve or spreads, have him examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet.

That looks like dysecdysis (abnormal shedding). This is due to improper husbandry like not enough humidity or incorrect temperature but can also be due to infectious causes. Here is a link to an article about this issue and tips on how to remedy it. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Reptile-Health/Diagnosing-and-Treating-Dysecdysis-aka-Retained-Shed/ If you try some home treatment and the issue does not resolve then I suggest you take Scarlett to a reptile veterinarian for a complete exam.

Consider having Bud examined by a veterinarian experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose illness or injury. Iguanas should be kept in a large enclosure that is properly heated. A varied diet complete with a multivitamin and calcium supplement will prevent disorders such as metabolic bone disease. At the very least, the vet can confirm Bud is on the road to recovery. Continue with daily soaks. You can use a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. In addition to darky leafy greens and diced vegetables, offer a commercial diet. Zoo Med and Mazuri offer excellent choices. You can read more about iguana care at the link below. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Green-Iguana/

Without an image or physical exam, it can be difficult to determine exactly what is going on. It could be a bacterial or fungal infection, skin from shedding or trauma (burn, abrasion, etc). Ideally, Iggy should be examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. You can find one using the link below if necessary. http://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661 In the meantime, confirm proper environmental parameters. To much humidity can promote bacterial or fungal overgrowth, too little humidity can lead to difficult sheds. Make sure Iggy cannot come into contact with either the heat lamp or UVB light source. Minor infection can be treated with daily cleanings using diluted Betadine or Chlorhexidine. Clean and sanitize the cage and use plain paper towels as substrate to make cleaning easier until the issue is resolved.