My iguana almost died. How can I help its recovery and improve diet?

The bumps could be infection (bacterial or fungal). An iguana that won't eat should be examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp veterinarian. Make sure the temp in the enclosure is warm enough. Low temps can affect appetite. Symptoms may indicate MBD (metabolic bone disease), but this should be diagnosed by the vet. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will treat or prevent mild dehydration and may help with shedding. If bloodwork shows low calcium, your vet can dispense or administer calcium supplementation.

He should be examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose infection, injury or metabolic bone disease. Provide unfiltered UVB lighting as well as a heat source. Calcium(D3) and multivitamin supplementation is essential as is a healthy diet of fresh greens, vegetables and fruits. You can also supplement the diet with a commercial iguana food. Review iguana care at the link below. Yes, it says "green iguana" however care is the same. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Green-Iguana/

Thanks for reaching out about Green and including a photo. Causes of anorexia in young reptiles can range from improper husbandry/diet, intestinal parasites or infections, metabolic disorders and others. A veterinary visit is recommended to assess and assist. Measure and correct temperature, humidity and UV exposure. A warm water soak can possibly stimulate defecation and water intake. A small syringe without a needle can be used to offer a vegetable baby food. Good luck.

Without an image or physical exam, it can be difficult to determine exactly what is going on. It could be a bacterial or fungal infection, skin from shedding or trauma (burn, abrasion, etc). Ideally, Iggy should be examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. You can find one using the link below if necessary. http://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661 In the meantime, confirm proper environmental parameters. To much humidity can promote bacterial or fungal overgrowth, too little humidity can lead to difficult sheds. Make sure Iggy cannot come into contact with either the heat lamp or UVB light source. Minor infection can be treated with daily cleanings using diluted Betadine or Chlorhexidine. Clean and sanitize the cage and use plain paper towels as substrate to make cleaning easier until the issue is resolved.

The brown spots could be early mouth rot or other infection. He should be examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles today. Check the temps in the tank. Low temps can affect appetite and activity in reptiles. His symptoms may also indicate nutritional deficiency. If he is cold, soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. Offer an appropriate diet of fresh chopped greens. Supplement with a calcium and multivitamin powder as well. He should be under a heat lamp and a UVB light source. A special diet such as Oxbow Emeraid may be indicated. You can purchase this from your veterinarian after an exam.

In most cases, avascular necrosis occurs in toes or the tail. It could be AN, bacterial or fungal infection. An exam would be necessary for diagnosis. For now, provide the proper environment for Zilla, especially adequate humidity. lighting and heat. You can confirm proper environmental parameters using the link below. Daily soaks may help remove any stuck shed. Gently cleanse the area with a diluted betadine or chlorhexidine solution. If necessary, the veterinarian will need to debride the area to allow for healing. Fluker's Repta Boost can be used to supplement the diet until Zilla is eating more o his/her own. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Green-Iguana/

Thanks for reaching out about Guan. If he is having difficulty using his limbs, a veterinary visit is highly recommended. Metabolic bone disease can result in clinical signs from weakness to fractures. Environmental temperatures should be in the 90-100 under the basking site and at the lowest 70s at night, therefore they should never feel cold. See your local veterinarian as soon as possible. Good luck.