My aquarium has high ammonia and nitrates. How can I fix it?

Monitor water chemistry using a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Pristine water quality is the foundation for healing and recovery from infection or injury in fish. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt) as a general tonic to reduce stress, improve gill function and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup or two of water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 14 days then reassess the condition. An "all in one" product, such as Lifeguard (by Tetra), can be used concurrently to treat infection or parasites. Find one in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.

The most common problems if ammonia is persistently high is overfeeding, overpopulation and bad water quality. Did you try already to change the water completely, cycle the tank and what is the PH of the water? Lower pH below 7.0, full water change and reduce feeding are all essential steps. I would recommend to avoid the use of any chemical ammonia remover. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

If you can get him into a separate tank, that may be helpful. Remember though, a rapid change in nitrates can be just as dangerous as elevated nitrates. Maintain temperature and oxygenation. Use an air stone or bubble wand if necessary. Perform another partial water ( no more than 30% total volume) in a couple days, then again in another 2 days to gradually reduce nitrates. Live plants will also absorb some of the nitrates. There are also commercial products that can be used. Only one method of treating the tank should be used each day to prevent a rapid decrease in nitrate levels.

If your nitrites are spiking then I. would do a 10% water change weekly until it stabilizes. It sounds like you are testing and doing the right things. I am cycling a tank right now too- it is a little stressful! Best of luck and enjoy it!

It is possible the tank has not cycled properly which results in high ammonia and nitrite levels which can kill fish. Allow the tank to run, without fish, for at least 4-6 weeks. During this time, use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing every few days. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. What you are looking for is to have ammonia and nitrites at 0 ppm and nitrates at 20ppm or less. pH can hover around 7 for most community fish. Avoid large, rapid swings in pH though. What is happening in the tank during this time is that beneficial bacteria are populating the gravel/substrate and the filter. These bacterial populations are responsible for the Nitrogen Cycle. This cycle breaks down wastes from fish, uneaten food and plant matter into by-products that are filtered out or dissipate. You can "cycle" a tank with fish, however this increases the risk of loss. Once your tank has cycled, you can add fish. You will still need to monitor water chemistry and perform partial water changes regularly. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. You will also need to vacuum the gravel regularly and rinse the filter media. Never use tap water to rinse. Use a bit of tank water to protect bacterial populations in the sponge.

Elevated ammonia levels can result in "burns" which may turn fins and scales black. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Most pet or fish stores will do this for free or for a nominal fee. If ammonia levels are elevated, daily partial water changes, using aged or conditioned water, can decrease ammonia to safe levels (0.25 ppm or less). StressCoat or plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can aid in healing. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water into a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Confirm adequate filtration. The filter should be rated for at least twice the volume of the tank. You can change 20-30% of the tank water every couple of weeks. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock.

These cubes are typically placed in the filter or directly in the water flow. The filter should have a compartment that can be opened to remove filter media. Without knowing the brand of filter, more accurate advice cannot be given. The cubes begin to work immediately to reduce ammonia levels but they should not be used as a long term solution. Monitor water chemistry using a home test kit or by submitting a water sample for testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites with a nitrate level of 20 ppm or less. Perform partial water changes, no more than 30% at a time, to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. This would be recommended over using another method.