Ammonia won't go down in my new fish tank. What's the solution?

The best and safest method is through daily partial water changes, about 30-40% of total tank volume. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Recommended water conditioners are AmQuel, NovAqua and StressCoat. These can be purchased online or in most pet stores or fish stores. A home test kit should be used to monitor levels. If a tank is properly cycled, beneficial bacteria will break down these toxins. Overfeeding, excessive light or heat and dead plants can cause spikes in ammonia and nitrite levels.

Thanks for reaching out. Sounds like new tank syndrome, which is the time it takes for the biological filter to come up to speed, reducing ammonia to nitrites to nitrates. Continue to test and perform water changes as needed, giving the filter time to establish. Good luck.

It is possible the tank has not cycled properly which results in high ammonia and nitrite levels which can kill fish. Allow the tank to run, without fish, for at least 4-6 weeks. During this time, use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing every few days. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. What you are looking for is to have ammonia and nitrites at 0 ppm and nitrates at 20ppm or less. pH can hover around 7 for most community fish. Avoid large, rapid swings in pH though. What is happening in the tank during this time is that beneficial bacteria are populating the gravel/substrate and the filter. These bacterial populations are responsible for the Nitrogen Cycle. This cycle breaks down wastes from fish, uneaten food and plant matter into by-products that are filtered out or dissipate. You can "cycle" a tank with fish, however this increases the risk of loss. Once your tank has cycled, you can add fish. You will still need to monitor water chemistry and perform partial water changes regularly. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. You will also need to vacuum the gravel regularly and rinse the filter media. Never use tap water to rinse. Use a bit of tank water to protect bacterial populations in the sponge.

I would recommend to have the water completely changed. New water should be ideally submitted for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for that as well. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Hi, You will need to test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrates now that there are fish in the new tank. If the biofilter is not well established in the new tank, then the abrupt presence of fish will cause an ammonia spike. You should do a partial water change, ensure proper aeration of the water. There are products you can get to boost the biofilter if this is in fact the issue. You should also consider the number of fish for the just meet of gallons in the tank as overcrowding may be a contributing factor. If you need further guidance, please don’t hesitate to request a consult. Good luck!

Thanks for reaching out about Goldie. There are two concerns here: (1) not apparently eating and (2) high ammonia. For the appetite, try to note if there is feces. If feces, then eating. If appear getting thinner, then not eating enough. For the second problem, this is probably new tank syndrome, and not allowing the biological filter to establish. Water changes are needed to bring down the ammonia as that is toxic to the fish and damaging to the gills. Probably the reason for the frantic swimming. Good luck.

Monitor water chemistry using a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Pristine water quality is the foundation for healing and recovery from infection or injury in fish. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt) as a general tonic to reduce stress, improve gill function and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup or two of water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 14 days then reassess the condition. An "all in one" product, such as Lifeguard (by Tetra), can be used concurrently to treat infection or parasites. Find one in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.