Why is my fish swimming with jerky movements in the tank's center?

Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence ( 0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform partial water changes, no more than 30% at a time, to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Check water temp as well. Any of these can drive a fish to the surface. The "flashing" (darting about) can be due to infection (bacterial, fungal or parasites). Consider a broad spectrum antibiotic or an "all in one" product to treat multiple infections. Look in the Aquarium section of the local Petco for options. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.

I would suggest to try to stimulate him and see if he moves more. You can try to feed him as well. If he does not move and he is lethargic there may definitively be a problem; unfortunately the signs in this case are quite generic and a logic and radical approach would be required. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for that. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.

By your description, the condition could be resolving. A bacterial, fungal or parasitic infection could have been the cause. It could also have been a traumatic injury. Monitor for signs of ich or bacterial infection. Move Mushu to a small quarantine tank or bowl. Maintain the water temp at 78-80 F. If it is ich, this will speed up the lifecycle. Dissolve 1 teaspoon per gallon of aquarium salt (NOT table salt) into the hospital tank. Perform daily water changes with conditioned water and fresh salt. Do this for 7-10 days maximum. A wide variety of minor infections can be treated in this manner. You can treat the main tank in this fashion if necessary, but perform 25-50 % water changes to avoid upsetting the nitrogen cycle.

Cichlids can become aggressive when breeding, so if you have more than one male in your tank the spot in question may be an injury. As long as the aggressive behavior stops, the fish should heal. Minor infection can usually be managed by maintaining water quality and water parameters. Test the water to rule out elevated ammonia or nitrite levels. Partial water changes can be done if levels are above 0.25ppm (parts per million). A bit of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can be used as a general tonic to improve gill function, treat minor infection, reduce stress and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days adding just enough salt to replace the water being changed. If the condition spreads, separate the fish out to a hospital tank and use a broad spectrum antibiotic. You can find one in the aquarium section of the local pet store. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert if indicated.

There are several causes that can provoke these signs fro water imbalances to specific diseases like swim bladder ones. This problem requires a quite radical but logic approach. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for that. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.