Why are my fish missing scales and swimming erratically? Sick or injured?

Separate her out into a hospital or quarantine tank. Bump the water temperature up to about 80 F. Examine her for signs of illness or injury including damaged fins, parasites, dark or red spots or bloating. Add an air stone to increase oxygenation. Without a specific cause, general treatment with salt would be recommended. You can add 1 teaspoon of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) per gallon of water to the hospital tank. The easiest way is to dissolve it in some tank water then gently pour it in. Salt aids healing, reduces stress, promotes a healthy slime coat, improves gill function and can treat several parasites. Treat for 10-14 days then perform partial water changes to decrease salinity. If this does not help, consider a broad spectrum antibiotic or antifungal medication based on symptoms. You can purchase either online or in the aquarium section of most pet stores. Read package directions carefully before use.

Check the water temperature and chemistry. The slime could be algae or bacterial overgrowth. This occurs when there is inadequate filtration, overfeeding, too much light or if water is too warm. It cam also happen when there is a lot of plant debris. Perform a water change, rinse the filter media with tank water and adjust temperature and light if necessary. You can also separate the affected fish out to a hospital tank and treat him using a broad spectrum antibiotic and plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). The antibiotic you can find in the aquarium section of the local pet or fish store. Erythromycin or tetracycline are good options. Follow label directions carefully. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water into a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. You can treat with both for 10-14 days. Return him to the main tank once symptoms resolve.

Those could be copepods. They are typically harmless and difficult to completely eradicate. On the good side, they are a sign of a healthy tank and are useful in eating decaying matter in the aquarium. The brown algae can be due to insufficient lighting or lighting periods. You can wipe down the glass and plants, perform a partial water change and increase lighting. It can take weeks to month to resolve. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Confirm stable water chemistry and quality. Make sure the water temperature is correct as well. Too warm or too cold can cause stress. Look the Jack Dempsey over for signs of injury or infection. Ich, bacterial infection or fungal infection can cause the fish too twitch or shiver. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or Epsom salt) dissolved at 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water is a great general tonic that can reduce stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in any recovery. The eels should be fine, but the snails should be moved temporarily. You can relocate both to a separate tank to be completely safe. Treat the tank for 10-14 days then reassess the condition of the fish. Perform a partial water change afterwards to reduce salinity before you returns the eels and snails to the tank.

It doesn't look like Ich in the images provided. Ich will appear as multiple white dots the size of salt grains on the fish. The fish will "flash" or dart about the tank and rub on objects due to itching. The fish may have an infection or the loss of scales may be due to trauma from other fish. Consider separating the affected fish into a separate tank to recover. If this is not possible, maintain pristine water quality in the main tank and consider a broad spectrum antibiotic. You can find one in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. You are likely at the maximum number of fish in the tank. As they grow, they shouldn't get bigger than 2 - 2.5 inches, and reach adulthood you may need a larger tank or you may need to separate them.

It could be early ich (white spot) infection or another infection (bacterial or fungal). To be safe, separate him into a quarantine tank and monitor for any change. You can treat for ich as you did it in the past if indicated. Bacterial and fungal infections have different treatments, so I would be hesitant to recommend a specific medication without more information or a definitive diagnosis. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or Epsom salt). As a general tonic to reduce stress, increase gill function, treat minor infection of many types and to aid in recovery. This can be added to the quarantine tank at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Treat for 10-14 days then reassess the condition.

Hi, and thanks for your question. This is a quite generic presentation and a logic approach is needed. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further. If this answer was helpful please let us know, this will be used to improve our service!

This could be bacterial or parasitic infection. It is difficult to determine definitively since the image provided is not clear. Fish can be difficult to photograph. Basic care includes checking water quality and chemistry. This can be done using a home test kit or by submitting a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. There should be an absence of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20-60 ppm. pH should be as close to 7 as possible, avoiding large swings. Koi can tolerate a wide range in temperature, but generally do best between 65 F and 75 F. Again, avoid large swings in temperature to prevent stress or shock. If necessary, a partial water change can be done to stabilize chemistry and/or improve water quality. If you have other koi, consider placing this one in a hospital tank to make treatment easier and to prevent spread if the condition is infectious. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt) can be used to reduce stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water in a cup or two of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 14 days then reassess the condition. If there is no change, consider a broad spectrum antibiotic or "all in one" treatment. Either can be found in the Aquarium section at Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. All that said, if the spots multiply and appear like tiny grains of salt, it could be an ich infection. In this case the entire tank will require treatment. There are several commercial ich medications that can be used. You will also need to thoroughly vacuum the substrate/gravel in the tank and wipe down all tank furniture.