Why is my fish sick, not eating, gasping, and darting in its tank?

The bowl looks definitively a bit small for the two fishes. To understand exactly what is going on you need to approach this problem radically but logically. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Thanks for reaching out about Nemo. Have you tested water quality for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates? Having difficulty breathing is a common cause for raising to the surface to breath. Gills can be damaged by poor water quality, disease (parasites, bacteria, viruses), toxins and more, so determining a diagnosis will help with a treatment plan. A veterinary visit is recommended to assess and provide a diagnostic/treatment plan. Correct water quality, provide more oxygen via an airstone. Good luck.

Monitor water chemistry using a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Pristine water quality is the foundation for healing and recovery from infection or injury in fish. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt) as a general tonic to reduce stress, improve gill function and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup or two of water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 14 days then reassess the condition. An "all in one" product, such as Lifeguard (by Tetra), can be used concurrently to treat infection or parasites. Find one in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.

Check water quality using a home test kit if you have one. If not, bring a water sample to the local pet or fish store. Either may test water for free or for a nominal fee. Confirm 0 ppm (parts per million) ammonia and nitrites. Nitrates should be 40 ppm or less. Partial water changes using aged or conditioned water can be done to improve water quality. Many times poor water quality can lead to stress or infection. The symptoms described may point to swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection, constipation, stress or parasites. The red rash may indicate infection. Fast your fish for 3 days then offer bits of cooked, shelled green peas until they are swimming and defecating normally. A product such as Maracyn or Kanaplex may treat infection. You can purchase either (or generic antibiotics such as tetracycline amoxicillin or erythromycin) in the aquarium section of the local pet or fish store. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert if indicated during treatment. Make sure water temperature is between 78 F and 80 F, this is the optimal range for bettas.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.

Check the water chemistry and quality first. Elevated ammonia or nitrite levels can be toxic. Partial water changes can be done to stabilize and improve water chemistry. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. For goldfish, a range of 65F to 72F is recommended. Check the filter and rinse the sponge with tank water, not tap water, to spare beneficial bacterial populations and to maintain water quality. The tank may not be large enough to support 5 goldfish. Generally, 20 gallons should be allowed for the first goldfish then a 10 additional gallons should be provided for each additional goldfish. This is due to the larger than average bio load (wastes) they produce. Consider a larger tank or decrease the number of fish in one tank. Use a filter that is rated for at least twice the volume of the tank and add an airstone and pump for increased oxygenation. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Can be used as a general tonic. It will reduce stress, improve gill function, aid in any recovery and may treat or prevent minor infection. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days. When performing water changes, add salt only to the amount of water being replaced, not the entire tank volume.

Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for that. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. Lack of oxygenation could be the cause of it. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, Bubbles should examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation (where you can post pictures ) if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.