My fish is laying on the fake plant and barely moving. What's wrong?

I would suggest to try to stimulate him and see if he moves more. You can try to feed him as well. If he does not move and he is lethargic there may definitively be a problem; unfortunately the signs in this case are quite generic and a logic and radical approach would be required. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for that. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

The first thing that needs to be done is a water quality analysis. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores sell a basic test kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If any of those are amiss, correct that problem. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often a sign of swim bladder disease. This could be an infection, fluid accumulation or a mass pressing on the swim bladder. All of these create a situation where the swim bladder can not contain air, that allows them to control their buoyancy in the water column. The best treatment for this is seek assistance at a veterinary clinic with experience with fish, and have systemic antibiotics prescribed. A radiographs would be helpful in diagnosis. A good fish veterinarian would probably be able to aspirate the swim bladder and collect a sample for diagnosis. The majority of antibiotics available for fish over-the-counter are not good for internal infections and could possibly make things worse. Good luck.

These are quite concerning but generic signs. The approach must be logic but quite radical at the same time. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

The bowl looks definitively a bit small for the two fishes. To understand exactly what is going on you need to approach this problem radically but logically. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for that. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, Cosmo should examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation (where you can post pictures ) if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.

Thanks for reaching out about Tunky. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often associated with swim bladder disease, where the bladder is filled with fluid or infection, and not air, leading to difficulty with buoyancy. As always with fish, test the water quality for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates- correcting any abnormalities. If those appear within normal limits, a visit to a veterinarian with experience in fish, is recommended. Systemic antibiotics should probably be started, which usually mean injections. good luck.