How can I successfully potty train my free-roaming house bunny?

It sounds like your bunny is quite tidy and doesn't want to soil her cage. She will probably be easy to litter train, and then you will have somewhere in the cage for her to go. Make sure her cage is large enough that she has plenty of room to move around in, and so that her litter tray isn't near her food or water. You can use hay as a litter. To start training her, place her tray where she likes to go when she gets out of the cage. Put some of her poo and urine in the tray so that she knows that is where she needs to go. Once she is consistently using this tray, then move it into the cage. If she stops using it once in the cage, you might need to get her a bigger cage.

Rabbits can be territorial, and will often leave poop to make their territory. I see that Hazel is unspayed, which would contribute to the problem. Unspayed rabbits mark their territory more than spayed rabbits. If you added a new rabbit to the house, this could account for her pooping constantly. However, a sudden change in toilet behavior from a previously litter trained animal can suggest an underlying medical problem. I would recommend taking Hazel to your vet for a physical exam to see if there is a medical cause behind her pooping constantly.

Any change in behavior may be due to illness or injury. It may also be due to the stress of not having her owner around. Place an additional litter box in that corner. Pellets can be picked up and put in the box to remind Anne where she should be eliminating. Monitor her. If she stops eating or drinking, have her seen by her veterinarian right away.

Wounded Warrior is a very cute rabbit! I am not sure if it is because of the angle of the picture, but the litter box looks like it may be a bit small for your rabbit. Ideally the box should be big enough so that two rabbits of Wounded Warrior's size could fit inside of it. That may help provide some extra weight to discourage your rabbit from trying to pick up the box, and will also give her enough space to hop into the box and turn around. Also, some brands will also have a way to secure the litter box to the side of the cage, which may also help. One thing to keep in mind is that sometimes rabbits will decide to lay/relax in their litter box - for these rabbits, we often will recommend having two available. One for bathroom use, and one for relaxation. I hope that helps, and gives you a place to start!

Use a litter box that is at least twice as big as your rabbit. Try different litters (Care Fresh, Yesterday's News, Aspen shavings) to see if Freddy has a preference. You can also use a litterbox with an elevated screen that restricts access to the litter. Rabbits are natural diggers, so this may be a difficult issue to resolve. Provide plenty of exercise and enrichment. You may need to make a "dig box" for him to use when needed to keep him from digging in the litter.

Place a litterbox in each corner of the cage. When he goes outside of it, pick up the pellets and place them in the box he uses most often. Do the same with his urine. Soak It up with a tissue or scoop the wet bedding into the litterbox. Remove the litterboxes he doesn't use, one at a time, once you have determined his preference. You'll need to gradually acclimate him to allowing his feet to be touched. Allowing his feet to remain wet or wetting them frequently may predispose him to infection.

Thanks for reaching out about Oreo. Non-neutered males tend to mark territory by urine spraying. Having him castrated might decrease territorial marking. A simple litter box is the best, but might have to be cleaned more often to prevent his paws from getting wet. Good luck.