How do I hydrate my bearded dragon? Are water bowls safe for humidity?

When soaking a bearded dragon to increase hydration, I recommend having a Tupperware container that is only used for Phantom (reptiles have the potential to shed Salmonella when they don't feel well, and we don't want to cross contaminate anything in your home). You also want to get a thermometer (a human one will work) to measure the temperature of the water. Ideally it will be 90F for soaking. It can be chin deep, as long as Phantom can hold his head up. if you are doing this for maintenance (i.e. he is not sick), you can soak twice weekly for 15-20 minutes. If you are doing this because Phantom is sick or dehydrated, then I would recommend soaking him twice daily for 15-20 minutes. I personally don't utilize Pedialyte for soaking bearded dragons, as it can get quite sticky and sometimes they don't like the taste of it. Often they will drink while in their baths, and after that will urinate and defecate. I hope that helps to answer your question, and good luck!

Use a screen cover for the enclosure if you aren't using one already. Move the water dish away from the basking light to minimize evaporation. A dehumidifier in the room may be necessary if you live in a humid area of the country.

Check the humidity level. For beardies, it should range between 30 and 40%. Too high or too low can predispose Jank to infection or shedding complications. If a 20-30 minute warm compress doesn't help, have him examined by your veterinarian or experienced herp vet. A physical exam may diagnose or rule out abscess/infection or tumor. In either case, you'll need a vet to dispense medication or to pursue additional diagnostics (blood work, biopsy, aspirate, etc).

Some beardies like water, others don't. This may be normal for Gaara. Remove the bowl at night to prevent accidental drowning, water aspiration or excessive chill. Tip his head gently to remove any excess water. Do not stick anything inside the ear though.

50% humidity is a bit too high. Ideally, it should range between 30 and 40%. Consider a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) which will emit heat without visible light. Prolonged periods of high humidity may promote bacterial or fungal overgrowth and could predispose Calvin to respiratory infection.

Confirm correct cage temps and humidity levels. Ideally, a thermometer and hygrometer should be placed at each end of the encosure. Monitor for lethargy, loss of appetite or discharge from the eyes or nose. These can all indicate respiratory infection. Have her examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose infection or injury. More information regarding environmental parameters can be found here: http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html

Congratulations on your new addition! The tank is sufficient for a juvenile, however you will likely need a larger one when Sonora is fully grown. Make sure Sonora can get into and out of the bowl easily to prevent drowning. Place thermometers in the enclosure to monitor temperature. You will need 3. One at the cool side, one on the warm side and one for the basking spot. Hygrometers can also be used to monitor humidity. You can review care information at the link below. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html