How to keep my pleco healthy, happy, and spot signs of illness?

Add some protein to his diet. This can be in the form of live, frozen or freeze dried blood worms or blackworms. You can also use your preferred search engine to look for "earthworm sticks" to feed him. Check the water quality as well (hardness, pH, etc.). Make adjustments as needed. Low water temps may cause stress and illness. Check your tank heater and temperature.

Thanks for reaching out. Did you use tap water and dechlorinate prior to the water changed? The dechlorinating solutions do not work immediately can take several hours to lower levels of chlorine and chloramines (typically in tap water). Did you match water temperatures? Temperature shock of even a few degrees can lead to death or depressed immune system. A veterinary visit is recommended for the pleco to assess health and recommend treatments. Good luck.

Check the water chemistry. Two goldfish can quickly overwhelm a tank with their large bio load. Aim for 0.25 ppm (parts per million) or less ammonia, 0 ppm nitrites and 40 ppm or less nitrates with a temp between 65 and 72F. If water chemistry is good, it is possible the red marks are from the pleco. They are notorious for sucking the slime coat off goldfish leaving red marks and wounds. Partial water changes, 30-50%, using aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched are safer and less stressful than complete changes. Give the antibiotics time to work. You can add in plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) to aid healing. Dissolve one teaspoon per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it in the tank. Perform partial water changes after 10-14 days to reduce salt content.

Check the water temperature. This species does best between 68 F and 77 F. Low temps can affect appetite in fish. He may be near the heater for warmth. Check the water chemistry as well. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites with a nitrate level of 20 ppm or less. Partial water changes can be done to stabilize chemistry if indicated. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. If it is a "new" tank, there may not be enough food/algae on the bottom for it. Use sinking pellets or toss in some vegetables or greens. Be sure to remove any uneaten food after 24 hours to prevent it from fouling the water.

These are quite concerning but generic signs. The approach must be logic but quite radical at the same time. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Thanks for reaching out about Spooky and including photos. These are fairly easy to maintain as long as algae is available. They are susceptible to cold environs so don't let temperature drop below 65 F. If algae in the tank is limited, algal wafers need to be provided. Aggressive fish as tank mates can be problematic, so plenty of hiding spots are recommended. Good luck.

Hi, and thanks for your question. This is a quite generic presentation and a logic approach is needed. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further. If this answer was helpful please let us know, this will be used to improve our service!