My fish died. How do I make my aquarium water safe for new fish?

It is possible the tank has not cycled properly which results in high ammonia and nitrite levels which can kill fish. Allow the tank to run, without fish, for at least 4-6 weeks. During this time, use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing every few days. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. What you are looking for is to have ammonia and nitrites at 0 ppm and nitrates at 20ppm or less. pH can hover around 7 for most community fish. Avoid large, rapid swings in pH though. What is happening in the tank during this time is that beneficial bacteria are populating the gravel/substrate and the filter. These bacterial populations are responsible for the Nitrogen Cycle. This cycle breaks down wastes from fish, uneaten food and plant matter into by-products that are filtered out or dissipate. You can "cycle" a tank with fish, however this increases the risk of loss. Once your tank has cycled, you can add fish. You will still need to monitor water chemistry and perform partial water changes regularly. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. You will also need to vacuum the gravel regularly and rinse the filter media. Never use tap water to rinse. Use a bit of tank water to protect bacterial populations in the sponge.

Water conditioning can be complicated and I recommend to stop by your local aquarium store. They are most often familiar with the local water quality and can give recommendations specific to your location. Some areas need buffering solutions to help control things like the water pH. Here are a few links which may help answer some of your questions about water condition: https://www.aqueon.com/articles/freshwater-aquarium-water-quality https://www.petcoach.co/article/aquarium-water-management-alkalinity-vs-water-hardness/ Before moving your goldfish, make sure all the conditions are appropriate for goldfish: https://www.aqueon.com/information/care-sheets/goldfish https://www.petcoach.co/article/how-to-help-your-new-goldfish-thrive/ I hope this helps and please feel free to post any additional questions.

The most common cause of death of a newly acquired fish is usually shock or incorrect water quality. Fish tanks should be set up and left running without fish for at least 3-4 weeks to establish a proper nitrogen cycle. There are products that can shorten this time period. If this is not done, there may be high levels of ammonia, chloramine, nitrates and nitrites which can kill a fish. When introducing a fish, the bag should be floated in the tank for about 30 minutes to acclimate the fish to water temperature. This can prevent shock if the water is too hot or too cold. Test your water quality with a home test kit or submit a sample for testing. Most pet stores or aquarists will do this for free or for a nominal fee. Correct any imbalances as indicated. Slowly acclimate any new fish as written above. You can request a consultation to discuss your concerns in greater detail if necessary. Buying fish and starting a tank can be quite confusing initially.

I recommend to start with having the water tested. Many times this is offered by the pet store. If all the fish have passed away, the culprit is most often poor water quality, a disease or the tank not being properly maintained for the species of fish. I do not recommend to get more fish until you know the water conditions are correct and that you know the environment (temperature...etc) is appropriate for the species of fish you want to have. I hope this helps.

I'm sorry you are having difficulties with your aquarium. There are several issues that should be dealt with right now. They are water chemistry, aquarium size and choice/number of fish. Any new aquarium should be set up and, ideally, run empty for several weeks (usually 4-6 weeks). This is so beneficial bacteria have an opportunity to populate the substrate and filter. These bacteria are necessary to break down wastes that fish will produce. The technical phrase for this is "establishing the Nitrogen cycle". These bacteria will break down wastes into ammonia then nitrites then nitrates. Nitrates can then dissipate or be absorbed/used by live plants. In high enough concentrations, ammonia and nitrites are toxic and can kill fish. Cycling a tank with fish is possible but it increases the risk of loss. Water chemistry should be checked every few days using a liquid home test kit. A water sample can be submitted for testing , but is not as convenient as testing yourself. Most pet stores or fish stores will do this for free or for a small fee. Partial water changes, no more than 30%, can be done as needed to stabilize chemistry and maintain water quality. Choices for water conditioners include NovAqua, AmQuel Plus, Prime, StressZyme or StressCoat. Tank size is another concern. With most fish, the widely accepted "one inch of fish per gallon" will be sufficient. For koi and other carp species, including goldfish, the rule is not sufficient. At full size, goldfish need 20 gallons per fish with an additional 10 gallons for each additional fish. Koi do best in larger tanks, much larger...we're talking in the hundreds of gallons or small ponds. These species produce a larger than average bio-load (wastes) that can quickly affect water quality in a tank. To combat this, large water volumes and powerful filtration are required. Any filter should be rated for at least twice the tank volume. I'm not sure what size tank you have now, it may be fine if the fish are young and small, but they will quickly outgrow it. The last issue is choice of fish. Koi and goldfish are cold water fish. They do best in water between 65F and 72F. Most species of sharks do best in the high 70sF to low 80sF. Keeping fish in incorrect water temperatures will lead to stress and illness. This could be compounded by the water quality/chemistry issues you are having currently. Until the chemistry is stable and water quality is maintained, your fish will continue to become ill and possibly die. Any treatment will not be successful in this situation. Do not purchase or add any more fish until the tank has cycled. If you have additional questions, you can post them in the forum or request a consultation to discuss the case in greater depth.

Check the water chemistry using a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Rinse the filter media in tank water, not tap water, and replace it. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. To limit algae growth, maintain pristine water quality via filtration and regular water changes. If possible, turn up filter flow to keep water moving. If this stresses the fish though, do not do it. Do not overfeed and remove any uneaten food promptly. Limit lighting to 8 hours daily and closely monitor water temperature as well. All these can promote algae overgrowth.

Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for that. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. Lack of oxygenation could be the cause of it. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, Bubbles should examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation (where you can post pictures ) if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.