Goldfish lying on side, barely breathing, not eating. What's wrong?

The first thing that needs to be done is a water quality analysis. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores sell a basic test kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If any of those are amiss, correct that problem. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often a sign of swim bladder disease. This could be an infection, fluid accumulation or a mass pressing on the swim bladder. All of these create a situation where the swim bladder can not contain air, that allows them to control their buoyancy in the water column. The best treatment for this is seek assistance at a veterinary clinic with experience with fish, and have systemic antibiotics prescribed. A radiographs would be helpful in diagnosis. A good fish veterinarian would probably be able to aspirate the swim bladder and collect a sample for diagnosis. The majority of antibiotics available for fish over-the-counter are not good for internal infections and could possibly make things worse. Good luck.

Thanks for reaching out about Tank. A radiograph or blood work could help provide answers. Radiographs could show a fluid/pus filled swim bladder. Injectable antibiotics could assist. There is little that can be done at home. Good luck.

There are several causes that can provoke these signs fro water imbalances to specific diseases like swim bladder ones. This problem requires a quite radical but logic approach. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for that. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Goldfish sit at the bottom of a tank when they are not well, often because toxins have built up in the water. Goldfish are usually active, and lethargy is a sign of illness. Maintaining good water quality is essential for proper aquarium care. In the enclosed, finite space of a fish tank, toxic elements, such as ammonia and nitrates, can build up in the water causing disease and killing fish. The only way to detect and control toxins is to perform regular chemical tests on the water and to perform gradual water changes to remove impurities and maintain the proper water parameters.

Thanks for reaching out about Nemo and including photos. There is no evidence of Ich in the photos. Have you tested water quality for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates? Correct problems. If having difficulty breathing (slow gill rate) add an air stone. A veterinary visit is recommended to assess and provide a diagnostic/treatment plan. Good luck.

Since the others in the tank are behaving normally, this one may be sick or injured. Ideally, it should be separated into a quarantine or hospital tank Check water chemistry first, even if you've done it already. You can use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0ppm) of ammonia and nitrites, with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to correct or stabilize water chemistry. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent additional stress or shock. Goldfish are cold water fish and do best between 68F and 74F. Change no more than 30% of the volume at one time. In the absence of other symptoms or injury, medications cannot be recommended. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Kosher salt) as a general tonic to decrease stress, increase gill function and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of salt per 2 gallons of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days then perform partial water changes to decrease salinity.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.