Why is my goldfish at the bottom, bent, not eating, and struggling?

Since the others in the tank are behaving normally, this one may be sick or injured. Ideally, it should be separated into a quarantine or hospital tank Check water chemistry first, even if you've done it already. You can use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0ppm) of ammonia and nitrites, with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to correct or stabilize water chemistry. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent additional stress or shock. Goldfish are cold water fish and do best between 68F and 74F. Change no more than 30% of the volume at one time. In the absence of other symptoms or injury, medications cannot be recommended. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Kosher salt) as a general tonic to decrease stress, increase gill function and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of salt per 2 gallons of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days then perform partial water changes to decrease salinity.

Check the water quality and temperature. Warm water will not hold as much oxygen as cool water and goldfish are cold water fish. Ideal water temp is about 21 C. Use a home water test kit to check parameters. Ammonia and nitrites should read 0ppm (parts per million) and nitrates can be 40ppm or less. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores or aquarists will test a sample for free or for a nominal fee. Ensure adequate filtration and oxygenation. Use a filter that will comfortably handle twice the volume of your tank. An airstone will increase oxygenation. A tank hood or cover is recommended to prevent fish from jumping out.

Thanks for reaching out about Tunky. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often associated with swim bladder disease, where the bladder is filled with fluid or infection, and not air, leading to difficulty with buoyancy. As always with fish, test the water quality for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates- correcting any abnormalities. If those appear within normal limits, a visit to a veterinarian with experience in fish, is recommended. Systemic antibiotics should probably be started, which usually mean injections. good luck.

Check the water chemistry and quality first. Elevated ammonia or nitrite levels can be toxic. Partial water changes can be done to stabilize and improve water chemistry. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. For goldfish, a range of 65F to 72F is recommended. Check the filter and rinse the sponge with tank water, not tap water, to spare beneficial bacterial populations and to maintain water quality. The tank may not be large enough to support 5 goldfish. Generally, 20 gallons should be allowed for the first goldfish then a 10 additional gallons should be provided for each additional goldfish. This is due to the larger than average bio load (wastes) they produce. Consider a larger tank or decrease the number of fish in one tank. Use a filter that is rated for at least twice the volume of the tank and add an airstone and pump for increased oxygenation. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Can be used as a general tonic. It will reduce stress, improve gill function, aid in any recovery and may treat or prevent minor infection. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days. When performing water changes, add salt only to the amount of water being replaced, not the entire tank volume.

Check the water chemistry. A large water change can cause ammonia spikes or other imbalances. Check the water temperature as well. Goldfish do best in cooler water, between 65 F and 72 F. Consider a quarantine tank for him if he is the only symptomatic fish. Continue with the medications as directed on the package.

The first thing that needs to be done is a water quality analysis. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores sell a basic test kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If any of those are amiss, correct that problem. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often a sign of swim bladder disease. This could be an infection, fluid accumulation or a mass pressing on the swim bladder. All of these create a situation where the swim bladder can not contain air, that allows them to control their buoyancy in the water column. The best treatment for this is seek assistance at a veterinary clinic with experience with fish, and have systemic antibiotics prescribed. A radiographs would be helpful in diagnosis. A good fish veterinarian would probably be able to aspirate the swim bladder and collect a sample for diagnosis. The majority of antibiotics available for fish over-the-counter are not good for internal infections and could possibly make things worse. Good luck.

There are a few possibilities including normal adjustment or something wrong with the water quality. Also, you will need a bigger tank for Nutty that includes a filtration system. Here is a link about goldfish care: https://www.petcoach.co/article/how-to-help-your-new-goldfish-thrive/ https://www.aqueon.com/information/care-sheets/goldfish Make sure the water quality is good for Nutty. I hope this helps and please feel free to post any additional questions.