Why is my fish struggling to swim, jumping, or lying at the bottom?

Since the others in the tank are behaving normally, this one may be sick or injured. Ideally, it should be separated into a quarantine or hospital tank Check water chemistry first, even if you've done it already. You can use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0ppm) of ammonia and nitrites, with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to correct or stabilize water chemistry. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent additional stress or shock. Goldfish are cold water fish and do best between 68F and 74F. Change no more than 30% of the volume at one time. In the absence of other symptoms or injury, medications cannot be recommended. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Kosher salt) as a general tonic to decrease stress, increase gill function and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of salt per 2 gallons of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days then perform partial water changes to decrease salinity.

Goldfish sit at the bottom of a tank when they are not well, often because toxins have built up in the water. Goldfish are usually active, and lethargy is a sign of illness. Maintaining good water quality is essential for proper aquarium care. In the enclosed, finite space of a fish tank, toxic elements, such as ammonia and nitrates, can build up in the water causing disease and killing fish. The only way to detect and control toxins is to perform regular chemical tests on the water and to perform gradual water changes to remove impurities and maintain the proper water parameters.

Check the water chemistry and quality first. Elevated ammonia or nitrite levels can be toxic. Partial water changes can be done to stabilize and improve water chemistry. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. For goldfish, a range of 65F to 72F is recommended. Check the filter and rinse the sponge with tank water, not tap water, to spare beneficial bacterial populations and to maintain water quality. The tank may not be large enough to support 5 goldfish. Generally, 20 gallons should be allowed for the first goldfish then a 10 additional gallons should be provided for each additional goldfish. This is due to the larger than average bio load (wastes) they produce. Consider a larger tank or decrease the number of fish in one tank. Use a filter that is rated for at least twice the volume of the tank and add an airstone and pump for increased oxygenation. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Can be used as a general tonic. It will reduce stress, improve gill function, aid in any recovery and may treat or prevent minor infection. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days. When performing water changes, add salt only to the amount of water being replaced, not the entire tank volume.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence ( 0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform partial water changes, no more than 30% at a time, to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Check water temp as well. Any of these can drive a fish to the surface. The "flashing" (darting about) can be due to infection (bacterial, fungal or parasites). Consider a broad spectrum antibiotic or an "all in one" product to treat multiple infections. Look in the Aquarium section of the local Petco for options. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.

Usually lack of water quality, lack of oxygen, overcrowding and abnormal temperature are all common causes of this behaviour. They could be hungry as well, but usually they come to the surface at certain time or in response to visual stimuli like your presence. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.

The first thing that needs to be done is a water quality analysis. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores sell a basic test kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If any of those are amiss, correct that problem. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often a sign of swim bladder disease. This could be an infection, fluid accumulation or a mass pressing on the swim bladder. All of these create a situation where the swim bladder can not contain air, that allows them to control their buoyancy in the water column. The best treatment for this is seek assistance at a veterinary clinic with experience with fish, and have systemic antibiotics prescribed. A radiographs would be helpful in diagnosis. A good fish veterinarian would probably be able to aspirate the swim bladder and collect a sample for diagnosis. The majority of antibiotics available for fish over-the-counter are not good for internal infections and could possibly make things worse. Good luck.