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Published on December 31st, 2000
Updated on June 18th, 2026

Written by Angela Walter, DVM
Whether you are experienced with the whelping process or this is your first time, there are some things that can help prepare you for the arrival of the tiny bundles of joy.
Awaiting the birth of a litter of pups is an exciting time. Whether you are experienced with the birthing, or whelping, process or this is your first time, there are some things that can help prepare you for the arrival of the tiny bundles of joy.
What Is a Whelping Box?
As the big day is fast approaching, you should gather all of the supplies needed and be ready at least a week before your dog's expected due date.
The whelping box is the single biggest item needed. It should provide enough room for the bitch to lay and stretch out comfortably without being so big that the puppies get "lost." For large breed dogs, it is also nice if a person can sit in the box with mom during labor and delivery and to play with the puppies later. The floor of the whelping box must be level and stable. The sides should be high enough to keep 4-week-old puppies in, but be hinged or have a door so mom can come and go. A safety rail is necessary around the entire perimeter. This allows the puppies to fit underneath in case the dam lays down and they are in the way. It should be high and wide enough for a month-old puppy to fit under. The whelping box should be set up in a warm, quiet, safe location.
A heat lamp should be placed high enough that the bitch cannot contact it, but close enough to heat the area. It should only heat a corner of the whelping box, so if the puppies are too warm, they can move away from the heat source. An alternative to a heat lamp is to purchase a whelping box with in-floor radiant heat. These state of the art whelping boxes use temperature controlled water that circulates in the center of the floor. If the pups are too warm, they can move to the outer perimeter away from the in-floor heat source.
Newspaper can be put in the whelping box during delivery. As it gets wet more layers are added. Once she is done whelping and is taken outside to relieve herself, the entire box is changed and dry paper put in with a blanket stretched tight over the top to give puppies traction.
Puppy Birthing Supplies
Have large plastic garbage bags handy to place used newspaper, paper towels and other garbage.
A laundry basket or box should be available to place puppies in while the rest of the litter is born. This protects them while the bitch paces and moves around during labor. A heating pad should be placed on the bottom with a fleece pad over it. (The puppies should NEVER be placed directly on heating pads, as they may be burned.) Another 1 or 2 towels should be placed over the top of the basket to keep the heat in. The fleece and the air in the basket should feel comfortably warm to your hand. If the puppies are moving around and crying, they are too cold or too hot. If they are bobbing their heads, searching, and crying, they are hungry. They should be put with mom as soon as possible to nurse. The puppies can be placed with the dam between births to allow them to nurse and bond, and if necessary, be put back in the basket while the next littermate arrives.
A large stack of soft, clean towels should be handy to help clean off puppies. Large litters may require 2-3 dozen towels. White or light colored towels will show the color of any discharge or placenta. Have a laundry basket handy to throw them in as they are used. Wash as soon after birth as possible with detergent and bleach. An easy alternative is to use paper towel that can be discarded.
Other supplies to have on hand include hemostats and heavy sewing thread or suture to tie the umbilical cords, blunt-end scissors to cut the umbilical cords, petroleum jelly to lubricate pups, sterile surgical gloves, and a pediatric bulb syringe to suction the airways.
Predicting the Delivery Time
Average gestation is about 63 days from the date of ovulation, which may be different than the date(s) of breeding(s). Several changes that may be noticeable in the bitch the last week before delivery include a distended, "dropped" abdomen, enlarged and softened vulva, enlarged nipples, and full mammary glands. Taking her temperature at least twice a day the last 10 days before the delivery date is also helpful. Some bitch's temperatures will drop below 99 F within 24 hours of delivery. This may not be seen in all bitches, but is another indicator. Loss of appetite and nervousness (pacing, panting) alternating with sleep also indicate the time is near.
Preparing Mom
Clipping the long hair from the underside of the abdomen allows the puppies to find the nipples easier. A female dog, or bitch, may shed significantly in preparation for delivery. Trimming the rear quarters helps keep the mess to a minimum. If she is not kept clean, she should receive a bath before delivery and then be kept in the house.
Remove the bitch's collar before whelping to eliminate a possible hazard to the puppies.
Once labor has begun, do not let her outside except on a leash and bring a towel along in case a puppy is born. Bring a flashlight along if it is nighttime. Check the spot after she urinates for signs of mucus, blood, or other discharge.
Stages of Labor in Dogs
Labor and delivery have three stages. In the first stage, the cervix dilates and softens. She may moan, whimper, and pant during labor. Abdominal contractions are not evident in this stage. She may be restless, secretive, and try to hide. This is why the whelping box is in a quiet area in the house. The lights can be dimmed if she is more comfortable. She may shred paper and blankets during this stage also. Stage one may take 12-24 hours. It ends when the first puppy passes into the pelvic canal.
Stage two starts when she begins actively pushing the first puppy out. The first puppy tends to take the longest, as it needs to fully dilate the cervix. Normally, 1-4 strong contractions are necessary to deliver each puppy. She may be very vocal during delivery, and she may stand, lie, or sit with haunches to one side for delivery. She will be more relaxed if those present are relaxed. Some dogs do not want anyone around for the whelping and the pet parent needs to keep their distance, while other bitches may want the pet parent in the whelping box with them.
The amniotic fluid (water bubble) is seen first. The puppy may come head first or rear paws first. Either way is normal. As soon as the puppy is born, the dam should remove the sac from its face. If the bitch does not do so within several seconds, the owner should remove it so the puppy can breathe.
The bitch will start licking the puppy and will not be extremely gentle with the puppy. That is fine, since the puppy needs stimulation to start breathing on his own. He should be crying and starting to move around. Within minutes he may be ready to nurse, although some puppies need a short rest to recover from the stress of delivery before they are ready to nurse. The bitch will crush and tear the umbilical cord about 1-3 inches from the puppy's body depending on size.
If she does not crush and tear the umbilical cord, clamp the cord between 2 hemostats and tear it or cut it. If the umbilical cord bleeds, tie it off with the sewing thread or suture. If you need to pick up the puppy, keep him in a head-down position to allow fluid to drain out of the lungs and nasal passages. Once the puppy is crying loudly and clearly, the lungs are clear.
The third stage of labor is the delivery of the placenta. Each puppy has a placenta and it is usually delivered with the puppy. Keep track of the placentas on the notepad, as she may have two puppies and then 2 placentas. The bitch will usually eat the placenta. After two or three, the owner can remove some of them to prevent her from eating them all. The placenta does offer nourishment to the bitch, but ingesting the placentas may cause diarrhea or vomiting.
She will repeat the second and third stages of labor until all the puppies are born. Some bitches will have 2-3 puppies in 20 minutes and then break for a couple of hours, while others take 2-3 hours per puppy. As long as she is comfortable and not contracting forcefully, monitor closely. If she is contracting forcefully and no puppy is born, call your veterinarian. If it seems too much time has passed or you are worried, call your veterinarian for advice. If x-rays have been done to count the number of fetuses, you will have a better idea when you are done. Do not count on complete accuracy in fetal numbers from the x-ray.
Allow the dam to eat and drink small amounts during labor and delivery if she wishes.
Allow the puppies to nurse between deliveries. After the first puppies have nursed, allow the newcomers a chance to nurse without having to fight off their older littermates. The puppies are only able to absorb the colostrum through their intestines for the first 24 hours of life. After that time, they are no longer able to get any protection from disease from the dam. The bitch should be licking their perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue this for 2-3 weeks.
Dystocia: Difficult Labor and Delivery
Difficulty during labor and delivery is called "dystocia," and there can be multiple causes.
Pet parents of breeds who are prone to dystocias (those with large heads and shoulders such as Bulldogs, Pugs, and Boston Terriers) should discuss the possibility of a cesarean section with their veterinarian several weeks prior to the due date. Some breeders of these breeds or veterinarians will opt to schedule a c-section.
Keeping Records During the Birthing Process
It is important to keep accurate records during the delivery. Keeping whelping records will help you recognize problems early, and be a way to follow each puppy during their first weeks of life. Be sure to be able to identify each individual puppy, record each pup's time of birth, weight at birth and each day thereafter. By recording this information, you will be able to identify a problem early and to seek veterinary care.
How long does dog labor last from start to finish? Stage one labor (cervical dilation, restlessness, panting) typically lasts 12–24 hours. Stage two — active pushing and delivery of puppies — can range from a few hours to over 12 hours depending on litter size, with each puppy generally arriving within 1–4 strong contractions. Stage three, placenta delivery, follows each puppy. If more than 2 hours pass between puppies with active straining and no delivery, contact your veterinarian immediately.
What are the earliest signs a dog is going into labor? In the final week before whelping, watch for a visibly dropped and distended abdomen, enlarged and softened vulva, swollen nipples, and full mammary glands. A rectal temperature drop below 99°F within 24 hours of delivery is a key physiological signal — which is why twice-daily temperature checks during the last 10 days are strongly recommended. Restlessness, pacing, panting, loss of appetite and nesting behaviors (shredding blankets or paper) are behavioral signs that active labor is near.
When should I call the veterinarian during whelping? Call your veterinarian right away if: active straining continues for more than 30–60 minutes without a puppy being delivered; more than 2 hours pass between puppies when you know additional pups remain; the mother shows signs of extreme exhaustion, pale gums, or collapse; a puppy is visibly stuck in the birth canal; or the total number of placentas delivered does not match the number of puppies born. Never attempt to manually assist delivery without veterinary guidance.
Is it normal for puppies to be born rear-paws first? Yes. Puppies can be delivered head-first or rear-paws first (breech), and both presentations are considered normal in dogs. The critical step in either case is ensuring the amniotic sac is removed from the puppy's face within seconds of delivery — by the mother or by you — so the newborn can breathe. If the puppy is not crying and moving within moments, keep him in a head-down position to help drain fluid from the airways and gently stimulate him with a clean towel.
How many placentas should be delivered, and should the mother eat them? Each puppy has its own placenta, so the number of placentas should equal the number of puppies born — track both on a notepad throughout whelping. The mother will naturally want to eat the placentas, which do provide some nourishment, but allowing her to consume more than two or three can cause vomiting or diarrhea. Remove extras once she has had a couple. If any placentas are unaccounted for after whelping is complete, let your veterinarian know, as a retained placenta can lead to serious infection.
What should newborn puppies eat, and how soon should they nurse? Newborn puppies should nurse from their mother as soon as possible after birth — ideally within the first few hours — to receive colostrum, the antibody-rich first milk that supports early immune function. If a puppy is unable to nurse or the mother cannot produce milk, consult your veterinarian about an appropriate commercial puppy milk replacer; cow's milk is not a suitable substitute. Nutritional adequacy for nursing mothers and neonates should follow established small-animal nutrition guidelines. https://www.merckvetmanual.com/management-and-nutrition/nutrition-small-animals/nutritional-requirements-of-small-animals
Having everything ready at least one week before your dog's due date means you can focus entirely on supporting her — not scrambling for supplies. Use this checklist to stock your whelping station before labor begins.
| Supply | What to Look For | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Whelping box | Sized so the dam can stretch out fully; sides tall enough to contain 4-week-old puppies; hinged door or low entry panel; perimeter safety rail 3–4 inches high and wide | Keeps mom comfortable and prevents her from accidentally laying on newborns; safety rail gives puppies an escape space |
| Heat source | Heat lamp positioned so the dam cannot contact it (heats one corner only); OR a radiant in-floor whelping box with temperature-controlled circulating water | Newborns cannot regulate their own body temperature; a partial heat zone lets puppies self-regulate by moving toward or away from warmth |
| Puppy holding basket | Laundry basket or cardboard box lined with a heating pad on the lowest setting, covered by a fleece pad, then 1–2 towels draped over the top | Keeps delivered puppies safe and warm while remaining littermates are born; the fleece pad ensures puppies are NEVER placed directly on the heating pad |
| Thermometer (rectal) | Digital, easy-read; used twice daily for the last 10 days before the due date | A temperature drop below 99 °F can signal labor within 24 hours — though not all dogs show this sign |
| Clean towels (light-colored) | 2–3 dozen soft towels in white or pale colors for large litters; OR a bulk roll of paper towels as a disposable alternative | Light colors reveal the color of discharge or placenta; used towels should be washed with detergent and bleach as soon as possible after birth |
| Newspaper or disposable liner | Several layers deep on the whelping box floor during delivery | Absorbs fluid quickly; soiled layers are removed and replaced as whelping progresses |
| Hemostats (2) | Locking surgical-style clamps | Used to clamp the umbilical cord on both sides before cutting or tearing |
| Blunt-end scissors | Sterilized before use | Cuts the umbilical cord if the dam does not sever it herself |
| Heavy sewing thread or suture material | Pre-cut lengths ready to use | Ties off a bleeding umbilical cord stump |
| Pediatric bulb syringe | Small, soft-tip | Suctions fluid from a newborn's airway if the dam does not clear it promptly |
| Sterile surgical gloves | Latex or nitrile, box of at least 10 pairs | Maintains hygiene during assisted deliveries and umbilical cord care |
| Petroleum jelly | Plain, unscented | Lubricates a puppy during a difficult presentation |
| Notepad and pen | Waterproof or kept in a zip bag | Track the time each puppy is born and the number of placentas delivered — every puppy has one placenta, and all should be accounted for |
| Flashlight or headlamp | Fully charged or fresh batteries | Essential if mom needs a supervised outdoor bathroom break at night during early labor |
| Large plastic garbage bags | Heavy-duty, 13-gallon or larger | Immediate disposal of soiled newspaper, paper towels and used supplies keeps the whelping area sanitary |
| Leash | Standard 4–6 ft. lead | Once active labor begins, the dam should only go outside on a leash — bring a towel in case a puppy arrives unexpectedly |
| Emergency vet contact | Phone number for your veterinarian AND a 24-hour emergency clinic posted visibly | Consult your veterinarian immediately if active pushing lasts more than 30–60 minutes without a puppy, or if you have any concern about mom or a newborn |
Petco tip: Set up the whelping box in its permanent quiet, warm location at least one week before the due date so the dam has time to become comfortable and familiar with the space before labor begins.
When should I start taking my dog's temperature before whelping? Begin taking her rectal temperature at least twice daily during the last 10 days before her expected due date. A reading that drops below 99 °F can indicate labor will begin within approximately 24 hours — though not every dog shows this sign. Always confirm timing and technique with your veterinarian.
How long does each stage of labor last in dogs? Stage one (cervical dilation, restlessness, panting) can last 12–24 hours. Stage two (active pushing and puppy delivery) and stage three (placenta delivery) repeat for each puppy. If a dog strains actively for more than 30–60 minutes without producing a puppy, contact your veterinarian right away.
Is it normal for puppies to be born rear-paws first? Yes. Puppies can be delivered head-first or rear-paws first, and both presentations are considered normal in dogs. The dam should remove the amniotic sac from the puppy's face within seconds of birth; if she does not, the pet parent should gently remove it so the puppy can breathe.
Should I let the dam eat the placentas? The dam will typically eat the placentas, which do provide some nourishment. However, consuming all of them can cause vomiting or diarrhea. After she has eaten two or three, you can discreetly remove the rest. Keep a written count — each puppy produces one placenta, and accounting for all of them helps confirm the delivery is complete.
How do I keep newborn puppies warm between births? Place delivered puppies in a prepared holding basket lined with a heating pad on the lowest setting, covered by a fleece pad (never place puppies directly on a heating pad), with towels draped over the top to retain warmth. The air inside the basket should feel comfortably warm to your hand. Puppies that are crying and moving restlessly may be too cold or too warm — adjust accordingly and return them to the dam to nurse as soon as it is safe to do so.
When should I call a veterinarian during whelping? Contact your veterinarian immediately if: active contractions last more than 30–60 minutes without producing a puppy; more than four hours pass between puppies and you know more are expected; a puppy or the dam appears to be in distress; discharge is foul-smelling or bright green before the first puppy is born; or you cannot account for all placentas. Keep your vet's number and a 24-hour emergency clinic number posted at your whelping station before labor begins.
This article was created with assistance from AI tools and reviewed for accuracy by Petco's content team.
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