Why does my guinea pig bite bars and squeak when seeing another pet?

In addition to the big cage, provide adequate numbers of food/water bowls, toys and hides to prevent resource protection or food related aggression. If this doesn't help, you may need to separate the bully. You can try reintroductions after a week or two of separation.

Congrats on all three guinea pigs! Squeaking can be a sign of many things. Here is an article to read regarding happy squeaking: https://www.petcoach.co/article/how-to-know-your-guinea-pig-is-happy/ Here is also a great article about caring for guinea pigs: https://www.petcoach.co/article/the-best-way-to-care-for-and-feed-your-guinea-pig/ If the males get along, you may consider housing them together (do not put males and females together unless you intend to breed and then make sure to do your homework first). Guinea pigs do prefer company (as long as they get along) and if they don't have other guinea pigs to hang out with, the humans must make time every day for interaction. I hope this helps and please feel free to post any additional questions.

Sounds like you are on the right track! I see that Sebastian is a male, and I assume that you are getting another male - I apologize if that is not correct, as that is what I will be speaking to. To introduce the boys, you can put their cages next to each other - they will have visual and auditory (hearing) contact, but no physical contact. If you don't see any signs of aggression, such as putting up their hair, chattering their teeth, or lunging at one another, then you can move towards supervised contact. I usually wait 4-5 days to do this - this will allow for your new guinea pig to get used to your house as well. During supervised contact, I will often feed the guinea pigs, as this will create positive experiences with one another. After a few days of putting the pigs together for sessions, then you can put them together. The part that worries me is that if both of your guinea pigs are intact males, that they may end up fighting in the future. I would recommend getting them castrated if there is a veterinarian in your area who is comfortable with performing the procedure. I hope that this helps!

Hi again! It is not unusual for two guinea pigs to be a bit agitated by each other at the beginning, while they work out a hierarchy. I would suggest supervising them for now while they are together. If you notice the clicking again, I would separate them and try again another time. Try feeding them together, and offer them treats together so that they can start to associate some positive interactions with each other. I hope this helps, and that your boys start getting along soon!

In any grouping of animals you will have some sort of dominance hierarchy. Problems arise when one is so dominant that it won’t allow the other to eat enough, or when they start to injure the others then I worry that it isn’t a safe situation. If you have noticed scabs or wounds on them you may need to consider separating them when they are not being supervised. The same situation will apply when you add in a third. The dynamic will shift with 3. Either it will be easier and they will get along better, or one will clearly be the submissive and get picked on too much. Monitor closely and make decisions to make sure they are all safe. Best of luck and have fun with your pigs! Thank you for using Pet Coach.

Hi thanks for using PetCoach. It sounds like you’re doing a great job introducing Sebastian and Cosmo. I would probably give it a little more time before you cage them together 24/7. Continue introducing them in a neutral territory. Here is a bit more information on introducing GP. If both guinea pigs are mail, it may be a good idea to consider neutering them as males can often be territorial. http://www.guineapigmanual.com/introducing-new-guinea-pigs/

As long as they aren't drawing blood, don't separate them. If you can give them a bigger cage to share, that's great. Make sure there is nothing in their cage where one could trap the other. You can use fleece to make little tents, pouches and even strips hung from a grid on top of the cage will give them places to hide. Even cardboard boxes with multiple entrances and exits will offer them more variety in places to hide and den.