Why does my turtle have small bumps on its shell? Is it pyramiding?

Sly's shell does not look bad. The ridge you see is normal. True pyramiding is rare in turtles, that's not saying it doesn't happen. When it does, it is usually a result of poor diet and environment. Pyramiding is much more common in tortoises. YBSs are omnivores. They should be fed mostly greens and vegetables with a small amount of protein in the form of prey such as feeder fish, crickets and earthworms. A commercial pelleted diet supplemented with greens and prey is recommended. Calcium and multivitamin supplements, usually powders sprinkled on food, are necessary. UVB lighting is also critical to shell health.

I don't think this is anything to worry about. This does not look like shell rot - appears to be a scrape. She may be pyramiding. It is hard to tell from the photo angle. You can't reverse it, but you can prevent it from worsening by making sure the diet is 100% correct, as well as the rest of the husbandry. You can refer to this link: ( http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Red-Eared-Slider-Care-Sheet/ )

Bobbi looks fine. Pyramiding is not as common in aquatic species as it is in terrestrial species. The wideness of the black lines indicates rapid growth. Ideally, they should be half as wide or even thinner. Continue to provide proper environmental parameters and a balanced diet including animal protein, fresh greens and vegetables and commercial pellets. You can review slider care at the link below. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html

Hi, you’re right, the lumps are difficult to see in the photos. Lumps on or in a turtle shell can be from a number of things. There can be an underlying metabolic issue like metabolic bone disease (lack of UVB light and imbalance of calcium/phosphorus), or pyramiding, which can be from high protein and low humidity. Infections (bacteria, fungus, some parasites) can also cause shell lumps. Because these issues are all so different, it’s important to have Cookie examined by a veterinarian so they can do some tests and get her on the best treatment, if indicated. Good luck!

If you have exceptionally "hard" water, it could be calcium deposits, but you would likely have noticed it prior to or during the transfer. Have the water tested to be sure. Dry dock them for 2-3 hours a day for the next few days and see if that makes a difference. You can use a soft bristled brush and some diluted chlorhexidine (Hibiclens) to gently scrub the shells before dry docking. Continue to monitor for lethargy, decreased appetite and softness or pitting on the shells. See your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles for a physical exam if necessary.

Looks can be deceiving, but the shell looks fine in the picture provided. "Heathy" is more than just a clean shell though. He should be eating and defecating normally, basking regularly and swimming. There should be no redness or pitting on the shell. Provide clean water at proper temp, a basking spot also at proper temp, UVB lighting and an appropriate diet. You can review the article at the link below to confirm correct husbandry. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html

Retained scutes may be caused by poor husbandry. Confirm adequate water quality, temperatures, UVB lighting and nutrition. Make sure the basking area is completely out of the water. Add foods high in vitamin E and calcium to promote shell health. Limit protein as this can cause rapid growth and lead to pyramiding. Monitor for signs of infection such as soft or pitted areas on the shell, fungal/bacterial growth, bleeding or lethargy. The following link will provide more information regarding care and husbandry of sliders. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html