Is 110F too hot for my bearded dragon in an outdoor enclosure?

Under a surface heat pads are good for helping them thermoregulate. There is only a risk of being burnt if directly exposed to the heat source (i.e. hot rocks). It's important that the heat pad is only under a portion of the enclosure not to exceed 50% of the surface. You always want a cool side of the enclosure and a warm side, so Loki go where is best for him. Make sure the heat pad is not too hot (if it's too hot for your skin, then it's too hot for him). I've found they do well when the heat pad is on a medium, or mild setting depending on the ambient temperature and eclosure. It may take a little experimenting to see what temperature seems best for him. I hope that helps and all is well with Loki.

Check the temperature in her enclosure. Ideal would be about 76 F (24C) on the cool side to about 86 F (30C) n the warm side. Her basking spot should range between 90 and 100 F (32-37.7 C). Young beardies should not be kept on sand as it can pose a risk of impaction or obstruction if they inadvertently ingest enough during feeding. Use reptile carpet, slate or paper towels until she is older or feed her outside of the enclosure. If the behavior persists, have her examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet to diagnose infection or injury.

Thanks for your question about Smaug, and thanks for the photo as well! I think that you have a good start to your set up, and that we can tweak a few items. First, your lighting situation appears adequate - I see a UVB light (please change this bulb every 4-6 months), a basking light, and a ceramic heat bulb. I would ensure that your temperatures are appropriate for this species, and that you are monitoring them using digital thermometers (I think that you see both a digital and analog thermometers currently) at the level of Smaug. Analog thermometers are inaccurate, so I don't recommend using them (also, they are high up on the sides of the enclosure, so they wouldn't be giving an accurate temperature read for Smaug). For the cage furniture that you have, I like that you have places for Smaug to climb and hide. However, I would recommend having a hide on both the warm side of the enclosure and the cool side so that Smaug has choices. Same for the climbing structures. I may have missed a food and water dish in the enclosure - I would recommend that both of these be shallow, and be large enough for Smaug's entire body to fit within them. I cannot tell what type of shavings that you have on the bottom of the enclosure, but the only wood shavings that I recommend are aspen shavings. If they are pine, these can be irritating to the respiratory system. I hope that gives you a place to start, and thanks for using Petco Pet Education Center, formerly Petcoach!

It's a fine set up. You may not need the CHE at night. As long as nighttime temperatures don't drop below 70 F, you should be fine without supplemental heat. I can't see the top, but make sure the UVB light is not blocked by fine mesh.

Con rats on your new beardie! Conflicting information online can certainly drive you crazy. I'm not sure if you had a question or concern since the post was truncated. Juvenile beardies need temps that are a bit higher than adult dragons. As Sam gets older, you can make adjustments. For now, the basking area should range from 35C to 43C. Ambient temps should range between 29C and 32C. Nighttime temps should not drop below 22C. You can use a ceramic heat emitter at night if necessary. This is a heater that does not emit visible light which can disturb your beardie at night. Humidity levels should be 35%-40%. Beardies come from desert environments. High humidity can predispose them to respiratory infection. Use high quality thermometers and hygrometers to monitor parameters. The following links can provide great information regarding care and feeding. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html https://www.beardeddragon.org/index.php http://pogopogona.com/

Flattening out, or pancaking, can be a fear response. He may feel uncomfortable or stressed outside of his enclosure for long periods of time. This response is sometimes accompanied by gaping (opening his mouth wide). It can also be an attempt to create more surface area to increase heat absorption. If he is away from a heat source for too long, he may cool off.

He can stay in his bowl, but be sure it has clean water in it as they often defecate while soaking. You should also provide a hide or shelter for him as well. Do not leave his cage in direct sunlight as this could result in temps that are too high and possibly dangerous.