Why isn't my fish tank cycling after a month with a booster?

Hi and thanks for your request. To better control Nitrite and ammonia spikes it is best to cycle it for a month at least and measure nitrites, ammonia and nitrate constantly. Please follow the recommendations here below: The nitrogen cycle is the process of various bacteria converting harmful waste. It involves 4 steps: The first step is the decay of waste products of fish, plants, and invertebrates, along with any dead organisms or uneaten food. As these materials decay, ammonia is produced, which at even low levels will burn the gills of fish and choke off their oxygen supply. Bacteria called Nitrosomonas consume this ammonia and, in the process creating another chemical byproduct called nitrite. Although nitrite is toxic (preventing blood from carrying oxygen), fish can withstand roughly twice the amount of nitrite in their water when compared to ammonia. Next, other bacteria called Nitrobacter consume the nitrite and, in turn, release a less toxic chemical called nitrate. Nitrate requires anaerobic conditions to turn it into harmless nitrogen gas. The parameters needed to create this condition are not commonly present in most aquariums. Hence, water changes are necessary to dilute nitrate. The Nitrogen Cycle in New Aquariums Because new aquariums lack the colonies of bacteria that are necessary to provide biological filtration, the aquarium must be cycled. Cycling refers to the process of establishing and maturing the biological filter. Here's how it works: As the first fish in the new system begin to thrive, they produce ammonia. Without any Nitrosomonas colonies established to consume this toxin, levels climb and spike until the ammonia-loving bacteria population catches up. This phenomena can be observed by the naked eye as a sudden and temporary appearance of wispy, smoke-like cloudy aquarium water Ammonia levels then start to decline once the rate of ammonia production is less than the rate at which it is broken down by the bacteria. Nitrite goes through a very similar spike. Nitrite is produced through the biological activities of Nitrosomonas as they consume ammonia. As their numbers increase, so does the amount of nitrite, and in turn the population of nitrite-hungry Nitrobacter will begin booming from the abundance of nutrients. Nitrite levels will rise until the number of bacteria has increased to the point at which they break down the nitrite faster than it is being produced. The end product of this whole process is nitrate. Nitrate, in low concentrations, is not as toxic to fish and invertebrates, but can cause other problems in the aquarium. The best way to control nitrate is through regular partial water changes. Typically, new aquariums can be cycled in 2 to 6 weeks, but the actual length of time depends on many factors. Use a quality test kit to test your water conditions every other day, and when both ammonia and nitrite levels return to zero, you'll know the cycle is established.

It is possible the tank has not cycled properly which results in high ammonia and nitrite levels which can kill fish. Allow the tank to run, without fish, for at least 4-6 weeks. During this time, use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing every few days. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. What you are looking for is to have ammonia and nitrites at 0 ppm and nitrates at 20ppm or less. pH can hover around 7 for most community fish. Avoid large, rapid swings in pH though. What is happening in the tank during this time is that beneficial bacteria are populating the gravel/substrate and the filter. These bacterial populations are responsible for the Nitrogen Cycle. This cycle breaks down wastes from fish, uneaten food and plant matter into by-products that are filtered out or dissipate. You can "cycle" a tank with fish, however this increases the risk of loss. Once your tank has cycled, you can add fish. You will still need to monitor water chemistry and perform partial water changes regularly. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. You will also need to vacuum the gravel regularly and rinse the filter media. Never use tap water to rinse. Use a bit of tank water to protect bacterial populations in the sponge.

Thanks for reaching out. Sounds like new tank syndrome, which is the time it takes for the biological filter to come up to speed, reducing ammonia to nitrites to nitrates. Continue to test and perform water changes as needed, giving the filter time to establish. Good luck.

This can be due to micro bubbles from the filter. This will typically resolve in a few days. If the filter outflow creates a large amount of turbulence, try decreasing the flow rate. Another cause can be a bacterial bloom. This is a common occurrence after a water change and is caused by elevated ammonia levels or large amounts of organic matter in the tank. Either can feed bacteria and promote overgrowth. Check the filter media and rinse it, with tank water not tap water, if necessary. Check the water chemistry using a home test kit or by submitting a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Ammonia levels, ideally, should be 0 ppm. Perform a partial water change if necessary. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Condition the water before pouring it into the tank. Remove any dead or dying plants, limit lighting, monitor water temp and don't overfeed. This will decrease the chance of a bloom occurring due to excess organic matter. Luckily, bacterial blooms are not harmful to fish. They can be frustrating, but they do clear up eventually.

Thanks for reaching out about Cherub and including a picture. Amphibians are delicate animals and water quality is very important. Testing the wear quality regularly (at least once daily) for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are a must. Any abnormalities need to be addressed as soon as possible. Water also must be kept cool and stable. Amphibians do not do well with temperature changes. A varied insect diet also is important. Live insects, kept in good condition, will provide a wide variety of vitamins and mineral, protein and fat. Read up on what you need to do and b proactive with problems.

If your nitrites are spiking then I. would do a 10% water change weekly until it stabilizes. It sounds like you are testing and doing the right things. I am cycling a tank right now too- it is a little stressful! Best of luck and enjoy it!

The most common problems if ammonia is persistently high is overfeeding, overpopulation and bad water quality. Did you try already to change the water completely, cycle the tank and what is the PH of the water? Lower pH below 7.0, full water change and reduce feeding are all essential steps. I would recommend to avoid the use of any chemical ammonia remover. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.