Why is my cichlid acting weird, changing color, and has green slime?

Cichlids can become aggressive when breeding, so if you have more than one male in your tank the spot in question may be an injury. As long as the aggressive behavior stops, the fish should heal. Minor infection can usually be managed by maintaining water quality and water parameters. Test the water to rule out elevated ammonia or nitrite levels. Partial water changes can be done if levels are above 0.25ppm (parts per million). A bit of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can be used as a general tonic to improve gill function, treat minor infection, reduce stress and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days adding just enough salt to replace the water being changed. If the condition spreads, separate the fish out to a hospital tank and use a broad spectrum antibiotic. You can find one in the aquarium section of the local pet store. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert if indicated.

Separate her out into a hospital or quarantine tank. Bump the water temperature up to about 80 F. Examine her for signs of illness or injury including damaged fins, parasites, dark or red spots or bloating. Add an air stone to increase oxygenation. Without a specific cause, general treatment with salt would be recommended. You can add 1 teaspoon of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) per gallon of water to the hospital tank. The easiest way is to dissolve it in some tank water then gently pour it in. Salt aids healing, reduces stress, promotes a healthy slime coat, improves gill function and can treat several parasites. Treat for 10-14 days then perform partial water changes to decrease salinity. If this does not help, consider a broad spectrum antibiotic or antifungal medication based on symptoms. You can purchase either online or in the aquarium section of most pet stores. Read package directions carefully before use.

Those could be copepods. They are typically harmless and difficult to completely eradicate. On the good side, they are a sign of a healthy tank and are useful in eating decaying matter in the aquarium. The brown algae can be due to insufficient lighting or lighting periods. You can wipe down the glass and plants, perform a partial water change and increase lighting. It can take weeks to month to resolve. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Confirm stable water chemistry and quality. Make sure the water temperature is correct as well. Too warm or too cold can cause stress. Look the Jack Dempsey over for signs of injury or infection. Ich, bacterial infection or fungal infection can cause the fish too twitch or shiver. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or Epsom salt) dissolved at 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water is a great general tonic that can reduce stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in any recovery. The eels should be fine, but the snails should be moved temporarily. You can relocate both to a separate tank to be completely safe. Treat the tank for 10-14 days then reassess the condition of the fish. Perform a partial water change afterwards to reduce salinity before you returns the eels and snails to the tank.

Check water chemistry and filtration. Sunny may have developed a bacterial or fungal infection due to the switch in environment. Clean water is crucial to resolving infection. Perform regular partial water changes. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Maintain water temperature between 75 F and 72 F. Minor infection maybe resolved using plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Salt is a great general tonic. It reduces stress, improves gill function and aids in recovery. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat until symptoms resolve. When performing water changes, use just enough salt to treat the water being replaced, not the entire tank volume. If necessary, you can use a broad spectrum medication if symptoms persist. Look in the aquarium section of the local pet or fish store for products such as Kanaplex, Maracyn or Lifeguard by Tetra. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert if indicated.

Hi, and thanks for your question. This is a quite generic presentation and a logic approach is needed. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further. If this answer was helpful please let us know, this will be used to improve our service!

This can be due to micro bubbles from the filter. This will typically resolve in a few days. If the filter outflow creates a large amount of turbulence, try decreasing the flow rate. Another cause can be a bacterial bloom. This is a common occurrence after a water change and is caused by elevated ammonia levels or large amounts of organic matter in the tank. Either can feed bacteria and promote overgrowth. Check the filter media and rinse it, with tank water not tap water, if necessary. Check the water chemistry using a home test kit or by submitting a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Ammonia levels, ideally, should be 0 ppm. Perform a partial water change if necessary. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Condition the water before pouring it into the tank. Remove any dead or dying plants, limit lighting, monitor water temp and don't overfeed. This will decrease the chance of a bloom occurring due to excess organic matter. Luckily, bacterial blooms are not harmful to fish. They can be frustrating, but they do clear up eventually.

Check the water chemistry using a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Rinse the filter media in tank water, not tap water, and replace it. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. To limit algae growth, maintain pristine water quality via filtration and regular water changes. If possible, turn up filter flow to keep water moving. If this stresses the fish though, do not do it. Do not overfeed and remove any uneaten food promptly. Limit lighting to 8 hours daily and closely monitor water temperature as well. All these can promote algae overgrowth.