Why is my cichlid pale and inactive after a stressful trip?

Hi, and thanks for your question. This is a quite generic presentation and a logic approach is needed. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further. If this answer was helpful please let us know, this will be used to improve our service!

Separate her out into a hospital or quarantine tank. Bump the water temperature up to about 80 F. Examine her for signs of illness or injury including damaged fins, parasites, dark or red spots or bloating. Add an air stone to increase oxygenation. Without a specific cause, general treatment with salt would be recommended. You can add 1 teaspoon of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) per gallon of water to the hospital tank. The easiest way is to dissolve it in some tank water then gently pour it in. Salt aids healing, reduces stress, promotes a healthy slime coat, improves gill function and can treat several parasites. Treat for 10-14 days then perform partial water changes to decrease salinity. If this does not help, consider a broad spectrum antibiotic or antifungal medication based on symptoms. You can purchase either online or in the aquarium section of most pet stores. Read package directions carefully before use.

Cichlids can become aggressive when breeding, so if you have more than one male in your tank the spot in question may be an injury. As long as the aggressive behavior stops, the fish should heal. Minor infection can usually be managed by maintaining water quality and water parameters. Test the water to rule out elevated ammonia or nitrite levels. Partial water changes can be done if levels are above 0.25ppm (parts per million). A bit of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can be used as a general tonic to improve gill function, treat minor infection, reduce stress and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days adding just enough salt to replace the water being changed. If the condition spreads, separate the fish out to a hospital tank and use a broad spectrum antibiotic. You can find one in the aquarium section of the local pet store. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert if indicated.

Check the water temperature and chemistry. The slime could be algae or bacterial overgrowth. This occurs when there is inadequate filtration, overfeeding, too much light or if water is too warm. It cam also happen when there is a lot of plant debris. Perform a water change, rinse the filter media with tank water and adjust temperature and light if necessary. You can also separate the affected fish out to a hospital tank and treat him using a broad spectrum antibiotic and plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). The antibiotic you can find in the aquarium section of the local pet or fish store. Erythromycin or tetracycline are good options. Follow label directions carefully. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water into a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. You can treat with both for 10-14 days. Return him to the main tank once symptoms resolve.

Check the water chemistry using a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Rinse the filter media in tank water, not tap water, and replace it. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. To limit algae growth, maintain pristine water quality via filtration and regular water changes. If possible, turn up filter flow to keep water moving. If this stresses the fish though, do not do it. Do not overfeed and remove any uneaten food promptly. Limit lighting to 8 hours daily and closely monitor water temperature as well. All these can promote algae overgrowth.

They may be stressed from the trip, the water may be too cold (low temps can affect appetite in fish) or the water chemistry may be off. Consider a partial water change. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. The fish food is fine. They will likely eat it once conditions are corrected and they settle down.

Remove them or provide more cover (plants and hides) for the other fish to hide or escape. When fish hang near the top, it is usually due to low oxygen levels, low water temperature or improper water chemistry. It could be related to the different filter or the water change. Confirm proper water temp and use a test kit to check water chemistry. Ammonia and nitrites should be at 0 ppm (parts per million) and nitrates should be 40 ppm or less. Monitor chemistry closely until you know how the new filter operates. Make sure it is rated for the size tank you have to ensure adequate filtration. Correct imbalances using chemical treatment and additional partial water changes using aged/conditioned water.