My betta fish is doing headstands. What's wrong and how can I help?

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.

He may be dealing with some swim bladder issues. The swim bladder is what keeps a fish upright and controls buoyancy. Infection, poor water quality or constipation can affect the swim bladder. Perform a water change. Use aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. My choice for conditioners are AmQuel and NovAqua. You can purchase them in most pet stores or fish stores. Bettas are warm water fish and do best between 78 F and 80 F. Anything below 75 F will be stressful. A small tank heater may be necessary to maintain proper temperature. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it in. This will act as a general tonic reducing stress, improving gill function and treating minor infection. Change the water daily to maintain quality and dissolve just enough salt to treat the water being replaced. Fast him for 3 days, then offer small bits of cooked, shelled green peas until defecation and swimming are normal. You can soak the bits in some garlic juice to stimulate his appetite and boost the immune system. Transition to a quality pelleted diet and fast for one day each week to maintain GI health.

The first thing that needs to be done is a water quality analysis. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores sell a basic test kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If any of those are amiss, correct that problem. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often a sign of swim bladder disease. This could be an infection, fluid accumulation or a mass pressing on the swim bladder. All of these create a situation where the swim bladder can not contain air, that allows them to control their buoyancy in the water column. The best treatment for this is seek assistance at a veterinary clinic with experience with fish, and have systemic antibiotics prescribed. A radiographs would be helpful in diagnosis. A good fish veterinarian would probably be able to aspirate the swim bladder and collect a sample for diagnosis. The majority of antibiotics available for fish over-the-counter are not good for internal infections and could possibly make things worse. Good luck.

Confirm proper water temp. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. Low temps may lead to stress and illness. You can also try a small amount of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Salt can aid healing and acts as a general tonic. Use 1/2-1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Driftwood or Indian Almond Leaf can also be used to condition water.

He is "old" for a Betta. Check the water chemistry and temperature. You can use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. The cloudy eyes may be due to infection. Maintaining pristine water quality will help, but you may need a broad spectrum antibiotic as well. Look in the aquarium section of the local Petco for medication. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. Even with treatment, there may be permanent damage to the eyes if the condition has been chronic. The "laying down" is sometimes seen even in healthy fish. They may choose to lay on gravel or the broad leaf of a plant. It may also indicate infection or injury though. If hebisbhavibg difficulty reaching the surface, decrease the water level to make it easier. Bettas need to surface occasionally to get some air.

Thanks for reaching out about Aspen and including photos. This in not likely a problem with the fin, but a swim bladder disorder, therefore floating at the surface. Test and correct water quality for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Swim bladder disorders are often associated with secondary infections, abdominal masses or other problems. Only a veterinarian can assist with a diagnostic/treatment plan, so scheduling a visit is recommended. Good luck.

Thanks for reaching out about Stanley. First, test the water quality for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Correct any problems. Laying on the bottom might be an indication of a swim bladder infection/fluid. These are commonly bacterial and systemic antibiotics required. A veterinary visit is needed to prescribe medications. Antibiotics added to the water are rarely absorbed, and are generally for skin infections, vis contact. Good luck.