Why is my betta fish laying on bottom and biting tail after cleaning?

The first thing that needs to be done is a water quality analysis. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores sell a basic test kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If any of those are amiss, correct that problem. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often a sign of swim bladder disease. This could be an infection, fluid accumulation or a mass pressing on the swim bladder. All of these create a situation where the swim bladder can not contain air, that allows them to control their buoyancy in the water column. The best treatment for this is seek assistance at a veterinary clinic with experience with fish, and have systemic antibiotics prescribed. A radiographs would be helpful in diagnosis. A good fish veterinarian would probably be able to aspirate the swim bladder and collect a sample for diagnosis. The majority of antibiotics available for fish over-the-counter are not good for internal infections and could possibly make things worse. Good luck.

Thanks for reaching out about Flippy. A veterinary visit is highly recommended. Testing water quality for ph, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, correcting any concerns. Water must be dechlorinated for several hours at least, prior to adding to the tank. Laying on the bottom could be a sign of a swim bladder infection and loss of buoyancy. Systemic antibiotics, not water additives, are recommended. Bettafix as a water additive does little for systemic infections. Good luck.

He is "old" for a Betta. Check the water chemistry and temperature. You can use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. The cloudy eyes may be due to infection. Maintaining pristine water quality will help, but you may need a broad spectrum antibiotic as well. Look in the aquarium section of the local Petco for medication. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. Even with treatment, there may be permanent damage to the eyes if the condition has been chronic. The "laying down" is sometimes seen even in healthy fish. They may choose to lay on gravel or the broad leaf of a plant. It may also indicate infection or injury though. If hebisbhavibg difficulty reaching the surface, decrease the water level to make it easier. Bettas need to surface occasionally to get some air.

Thanks for reaching out about Gummy. Not sure of biting the tail is normal, especially if chewing to the point of removing part of the tail. Itching or irritation are most likely. Test and correct water quality including pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. These can be dermal irritants. Bacterial or parasitic concerns, spinal problems (scoliosis due to vitamin C deficiency) are also common and a veterinary visit would be needed to assess and provide a diagnostic/treatment plan. Good luck.

I would be concerned about a possible swim bladder disease. I would recommend trying to get him to a vet that sees fish to help you. The causes of swim bladder disease is not know. It is thought that it is linked to an infectious disease. So oscar might need antibiotics to help him feel better.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.

Recheck water chemistry to confirm 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. A pH of 7 is fine and they can adjust to more acidic water as long as the change is gradual. Temperature should range between 78 F and 80 F. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or epsom salt) can be used as a general tonic to reduce stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup or two of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Perform partial water changes every couple of days to maintain water quality. Treat only the volume of water being replaced. Treat with aquarium salt for no more than 14 days then reassess the condition. An antibiotic, such as kanamycin or erythromycin, can be found in the aquarium section of the local Petco if the salt treatment doesn't help. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.