My betta fish is having trouble swimming and floating at the surface.

Thanks for reaching out about Elliot and including photos. Concerns would include over-inflation of the swim bladder, causing positive buoyancy. This is possibly caused by an infection of the physostomatic duct which connects the swim bladder to the intestinal tract. If that duct is blocked, air can not escape the swim bladder and becomes over distended, thereby floating more. Antibiotics are needed to treat, and a veterinary visit is recommended. good luck.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.

Confirm proper water temp. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. Low temps may lead to stress and illness. You can also try a small amount of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Salt can aid healing and acts as a general tonic. Use 1/2-1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Driftwood or Indian Almond Leaf can also be used to condition water.

The first thing that needs to be done is a water quality analysis. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores sell a basic test kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If any of those are amiss, correct that problem. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often a sign of swim bladder disease. This could be an infection, fluid accumulation or a mass pressing on the swim bladder. All of these create a situation where the swim bladder can not contain air, that allows them to control their buoyancy in the water column. The best treatment for this is seek assistance at a veterinary clinic with experience with fish, and have systemic antibiotics prescribed. A radiographs would be helpful in diagnosis. A good fish veterinarian would probably be able to aspirate the swim bladder and collect a sample for diagnosis. The majority of antibiotics available for fish over-the-counter are not good for internal infections and could possibly make things worse. Good luck.

By your description, there may be seversl issues here. Check the water chemistry and quality. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Ideally, you want the following parameters: 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrites, 20 ppm or less nitrates, pH around 7, water temperature between 78 F and 80 F. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Decrease the water level to make it easier for your fish to surface. Fast him for 2-3 days then feed bits of cooked and shelled green peas until swimming and defecation are normal. If he remains bloated, prepare a bowl of water at the proper temperature and dissolve 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt for each gallon. Allow for a 15-30 minute swim once or twice daily. In the main tank, use an antibiotic, such ad Kanaplex or Maracyn, to treat infection/fin rot. A conditioner such as StressCoat can also help fins. These products can be found in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.

Recheck water chemistry to confirm 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. A pH of 7 is fine and they can adjust to more acidic water as long as the change is gradual. Temperature should range between 78 F and 80 F. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or epsom salt) can be used as a general tonic to reduce stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup or two of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Perform partial water changes every couple of days to maintain water quality. Treat only the volume of water being replaced. Treat with aquarium salt for no more than 14 days then reassess the condition. An antibiotic, such as kanamycin or erythromycin, can be found in the aquarium section of the local Petco if the salt treatment doesn't help. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.

Thanks for reaching out about Jeff and including photos. A swollen abdomen can be the accumulation of fluid, possibly due to diseases of the gills, heart, liver, lungs or something internal producing fluid. Sinking to the bottom, probably due to the fluid on the abdomen preventing the swim bladder from filling, therefore affecting buoyancy. First, test and correct water quality, as even small problems can lead to gill damage and the influx of water into the body, therefore the fluid. Adding non-iodized salt can decrease the water gradient into the body, relieving some symptoms but is not a cure. Salt from the pet store should have a dose. A veterinary visit is needed to assess if you want a more definitive answer. Good answer.