Why is my betta fish floating, losing color, and not eating properly?

He may be dealing with some swim bladder issues. The swim bladder is what keeps a fish upright and controls buoyancy. Infection, poor water quality or constipation can affect the swim bladder. Perform a water change. Use aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. My choice for conditioners are AmQuel and NovAqua. You can purchase them in most pet stores or fish stores. Bettas are warm water fish and do best between 78 F and 80 F. Anything below 75 F will be stressful. A small tank heater may be necessary to maintain proper temperature. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it in. This will act as a general tonic reducing stress, improving gill function and treating minor infection. Change the water daily to maintain quality and dissolve just enough salt to treat the water being replaced. Fast him for 3 days, then offer small bits of cooked, shelled green peas until defecation and swimming are normal. You can soak the bits in some garlic juice to stimulate his appetite and boost the immune system. Transition to a quality pelleted diet and fast for one day each week to maintain GI health.

Thanks for reaching out about Aspen and including photos. This in not likely a problem with the fin, but a swim bladder disorder, therefore floating at the surface. Test and correct water quality for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Swim bladder disorders are often associated with secondary infections, abdominal masses or other problems. Only a veterinarian can assist with a diagnostic/treatment plan, so scheduling a visit is recommended. Good luck.

By your description, there may be seversl issues here. Check the water chemistry and quality. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Ideally, you want the following parameters: 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrites, 20 ppm or less nitrates, pH around 7, water temperature between 78 F and 80 F. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Decrease the water level to make it easier for your fish to surface. Fast him for 2-3 days then feed bits of cooked and shelled green peas until swimming and defecation are normal. If he remains bloated, prepare a bowl of water at the proper temperature and dissolve 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt for each gallon. Allow for a 15-30 minute swim once or twice daily. In the main tank, use an antibiotic, such ad Kanaplex or Maracyn, to treat infection/fin rot. A conditioner such as StressCoat can also help fins. These products can be found in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.

Thanks for reaching out about Jeff and including photos. A swollen abdomen can be the accumulation of fluid, possibly due to diseases of the gills, heart, liver, lungs or something internal producing fluid. Sinking to the bottom, probably due to the fluid on the abdomen preventing the swim bladder from filling, therefore affecting buoyancy. First, test and correct water quality, as even small problems can lead to gill damage and the influx of water into the body, therefore the fluid. Adding non-iodized salt can decrease the water gradient into the body, relieving some symptoms but is not a cure. Salt from the pet store should have a dose. A veterinary visit is needed to assess if you want a more definitive answer. Good answer.

Confirm proper water temp. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. Low temps may lead to stress and illness. You can also try a small amount of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Salt can aid healing and acts as a general tonic. Use 1/2-1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Driftwood or Indian Almond Leaf can also be used to condition water.

The first thing that needs to be done is a water quality analysis. If you don't have a test kit, most pet stores sell a basic test kit that measures pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If any of those are amiss, correct that problem. Laying on the bottom of the tank is often a sign of swim bladder disease. This could be an infection, fluid accumulation or a mass pressing on the swim bladder. All of these create a situation where the swim bladder can not contain air, that allows them to control their buoyancy in the water column. The best treatment for this is seek assistance at a veterinary clinic with experience with fish, and have systemic antibiotics prescribed. A radiographs would be helpful in diagnosis. A good fish veterinarian would probably be able to aspirate the swim bladder and collect a sample for diagnosis. The majority of antibiotics available for fish over-the-counter are not good for internal infections and could possibly make things worse. Good luck.

Check water quality using a home test kit if you have one. If not, bring a water sample to the local pet or fish store. Either may test water for free or for a nominal fee. Confirm 0 ppm (parts per million) ammonia and nitrites. Nitrates should be 40 ppm or less. Partial water changes using aged or conditioned water can be done to improve water quality. Many times poor water quality can lead to stress or infection. The symptoms described may point to swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection, constipation, stress or parasites. The red rash may indicate infection. Fast your fish for 3 days then offer bits of cooked, shelled green peas until they are swimming and defecating normally. A product such as Maracyn or Kanaplex may treat infection. You can purchase either (or generic antibiotics such as tetracycline amoxicillin or erythromycin) in the aquarium section of the local pet or fish store. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert if indicated during treatment. Make sure water temperature is between 78 F and 80 F, this is the optimal range for bettas.