Can algae eaters live with green spotted puffers in brackish water?

Most puffers will not eat flakes or pellets. They need live or frozen foods. They also require hard foods to keep their teeth worn down. The local Petco will likely have these foods in stock. If the tank is overstocked, he may be stressed. He may also have an infection (bacterial, fungal or parasites) that are causing his symptoms. Ideally, a new fish should be quarantined for 2-4 weeks before being introduced to the main tank.

Bettas do best in water temperature between 78 F and 80 F. An algae eater should be okay, but it depends on your individual Betta. Some don't mind bottom dwelling tank mates. Watch for signature of aggression and remove the algae eater if necessary.

Thanks for reaching out about Spooky and including photos. These are fairly easy to maintain as long as algae is available. They are susceptible to cold environs so don't let temperature drop below 65 F. If algae in the tank is limited, algal wafers need to be provided. Aggressive fish as tank mates can be problematic, so plenty of hiding spots are recommended. Good luck.

Thanks for reaching out about your pufferfish. Meal worms are bags of fat and should be used as treats only. Frozen thawed tilapia is okay, but no bones thus a reverse calcium-phosphorus ratio. Ghost shrimp okay, live feeder fish okay but pufferfish not super fast. Small clams or snails are a good source as also require chewing to get into. Pufferfish have dentition that can overgrow is not chewing a lot. Good luck.

Those could be copepods. They are typically harmless and difficult to completely eradicate. On the good side, they are a sign of a healthy tank and are useful in eating decaying matter in the aquarium. The brown algae can be due to insufficient lighting or lighting periods. You can wipe down the glass and plants, perform a partial water change and increase lighting. It can take weeks to month to resolve. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Confirm stable water chemistry and quality. Make sure the water temperature is correct as well. Too warm or too cold can cause stress. Look the Jack Dempsey over for signs of injury or infection. Ich, bacterial infection or fungal infection can cause the fish too twitch or shiver. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or Epsom salt) dissolved at 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water is a great general tonic that can reduce stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in any recovery. The eels should be fine, but the snails should be moved temporarily. You can relocate both to a separate tank to be completely safe. Treat the tank for 10-14 days then reassess the condition of the fish. Perform a partial water change afterwards to reduce salinity before you returns the eels and snails to the tank.

If he is eating normally I wouldn't be overly concerned. The only time I would be concerned is if his color was changing to black or brown. Now, that being said, the biggest problem with these fish getting sick is incorrect husbandry. So, be absolutely certain that you have the tank set up correctly, water is correct, you are feeding the right diet, etc..... I hope this helps. Best wishes to you and if you have any further questions please feel free to ask! Dr. Amber

As an occasional treat, brine shrimp are fine. I would recommend feeding Pepper in a separate container to minimize mess. Once Pepper is bigger, consider krill since they are bigger and would be easier to eat.