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Published on May 26th, 2025
Updated on June 16th, 2026
Learn how to raise a happy, healthy new kitten with Petco. Kittens need a safe space, nutritious kitten food, and their first series of vaccinations.
The first few months of a kitten’s life are incredibly important for shaping their emotional, social and physical well-being. The experiences they have early on will help lay the foundation for the happy, healthy cat they’ll grow up to be. Whether you’re a first-time cat parent or a kitten parent who needs a refresher, learning to provide the right care from the beginning of your new relationship can make all the difference.
Most kittens are ready to leave their mom once they’re fully weaned, which usually happens around 8 weeks of age. Most states require initial vaccinations at this stage, before adoption occurs. Some shelters wait 12 weeks to allow the mother extra time to socialize her babies. Depending on your situation, you might be adopting a kitten at that age or a little older from a shelter or rescue. No matter how old they are when they come home, however, those first few weeks with you are key to helping your kitten feel safe, build confidence and set the stage for a lifetime of health and happiness.
Preparing your home for a new kitten means more than just gathering supplies (more on that, below!)—it requires creating a safe, nurturing environment that allows your new family member to explore and grow with confidence. Thoughtful preparation ensures that you and your kitten can focus on building a strong, trusting bond without any unnecessary stress along the way.
One of the most important steps in welcoming a kitten into your home is to look at your home from their sight lines and access. Tiny kittens are naturally curious and will want to investigate every nook and cranny. Close off or block any small gaps where a kitten could become trapped. Also remove access to any household items that could put a curious kitty at risk, such as window blinds, cords, hot surfaces and plants that are hazardous to cats. You can, however, purchase Cat Grass and or Catnip in moderation.
Back to those supplies. It’s best to have these items before your kitten joins your family so you can introduce them to everything immediately on arrival. They are:
The single most important thing you can do in your kitten's first days at home is give her a calm, contained space to decompress. Cats are territorial by nature, and a whole house full of new smells, sounds and faces can be genuinely overwhelming for a young kitten. A dedicated "home base" solves that problem.
What counts as a home base? An enclosed room or an area sectioned off with a pet gate works well. The space should be off-limits to other pets entirely. Young children may enter, but only under direct adult supervision — and for the first few days, visually block the gate so curious resident pets can't stare your new kitten down through the bars.
What goes inside:
How long does the home base phase last? Plan on keeping your kitten in this space for at least the first one to two weeks, or until she is consistently using the litter box, eating well and showing relaxed, curious body language. From there, introduce one new room at a time rather than opening the whole house at once. If she ever becomes overwhelmed during socialization or introductions, let her retreat to the home base — it remains her safe zone throughout the adjustment period.
Most kittens adopted from shelters have already been introduced to a litter box, so the learning curve is shorter than you might expect. If your kitten leaves you a surprise elsewhere in the first few days, simply pick her up calmly and place her in the box so she understands where to go. Avoid scolding — redirection is always more effective than correction at this age.
Start open, go covered later. An open litter box is the right call at first for two reasons: it's less intimidating for a small kitten, and it lets you monitor her eliminations as part of her health adjustment. Healthy output — frequency, consistency, no signs of straining — tells you a lot about how she's settling in. Once you've confirmed she's using the box reliably, you can transition to a covered style if that's your preference.
Placement and privacy matter. Some kittens prefer a little privacy when doing their business, just like people do. If you see her head into the box, give her space and check the results afterward rather than hovering.
Graduating beyond the home base. When your kitten earns access to more of the house, consider adding litter boxes based on your home's size and layout. The general guideline for multi-cat households is one box per cat, plus one extra [VERIFY]. Browse litter and waste disposal options to find the right setup for your home.
If your new kitten seems to do nothing but play at full speed and then crash completely, that's entirely normal. Young kittens sleep 16–20 hours a day — their bodies are growing fast, and rest is a big part of that process [VERIFY].
When choosing a bed, look for something:
Once your kitten has access to more of the house, having a second (or third) bed in different rooms means she always has a comfortable, familiar spot nearby — which helps reduce stress as she explores new territory.
Kittens are not simply small cats. Their bodies are growing at a remarkable rate, and their nutritional needs are genuinely different from those of an adult cat. Cats are carnivores, and a growing kitten needs a diet rich in animal-based protein, essential fatty acids, and key micronutrients — including taurine, calcium and phosphorus — to support healthy development https://www.merckvetmanual.com/management-and-nutrition/nutrition-small-animals/nutritional-requirements-of-small-animals. Look for a kitten food that meets AAFCO nutritional standards for growth, which you'll find stated on the product label https://www.aafco.org/consumers/understanding-pet-food/.
Most veterinarians recommend feeding a kitten-specific formula until the one-year mark. If possible, ask the shelter or the previous pet parent for a week's supply of whatever food your kitten has been eating — keeping her on a familiar diet for the first week or so supports both digestion and comfort during the transition.
| Age | Feeding approach | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Weaning – 6 months | Wet food 3–4×/day or dry kibble available freely | High caloric and protein needs; rapid growth phase |
| 6 – 9 months | Transition to measured portions | Growth slows; watch for overfeeding |
| 9 – 12 months | Begin gradual transition to adult food | Monitor weight; full transition by 12 months |
| 12 months+ | Adult cat food | Congratulations — you officially have a cat! |
Always confirm your kitten's specific feeding schedule and portion sizes with your veterinarian, since individual needs vary by breed, size and health status.
Switching foods? Do it gradually. Mix a small amount of the new food into the current food, increasing the ratio over 7–10 days. A sudden switch can cause digestive upset https://sites.tufts.edu/petfoodology/.
Wet food vs. dry kibble: Some kittens strongly prefer kibble, and that's fine — but keep in mind that dry food contains significantly less moisture than wet food. Since cats have a naturally low thirst drive, wet food can help support daily hydration https://www.merckvetmanual.com/management-and-nutrition/nutrition-small-animals/nutritional-requirements-of-small-animals. Explore wet cat food options and kitten food to find formulas that meet AAFCO growth standards.
Fresh water, always. Constant access to clean, fresh water is non-negotiable. Some kittens drink happily from a standard bowl; others are drawn to the movement of a pet water fountain. It's worth trying both to see what your kitten prefers.
Skip the milk. Despite the classic cartoon image, most kittens cannot properly digest cow's milk. Dairy can cause diarrhea and GI discomfort — skip it entirely https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/cornell-feline-health-center/health-information.
A well-socialized kitten grows into a confident, adaptable cat. The socialization window is widest in the first few months of life, so the experiences your kitten has now — positive or neutral — shape how she responds to the world for years to come.
The golden rule: exposure without pressure. Introduce new sights, sounds and experiences matter-of-factly, as if they're simply part of everyday life. Don't make a big production of a new person or a noisy appliance — your calm energy signals to your kitten that there's nothing to worry about. Let her approach and investigate on her own terms.
What to expose her to:
Managing family and friends. Everyone will want to hold the new kitten — that's understandable. Your job is to act as her advocate. Set clear expectations before anyone picks her up:
Consistency matters across every person in the household. If nibbling on jewelry isn't allowed, that rule applies to everyone — including grandparents who are convinced the kitten "doesn't mind." Mixed signals confuse kittens and slow down training.
If your kitten becomes overstimulated at any point, let her return to her home base to decompress.
Hold off on pet-to-pet introductions until your kitten has completed her core vaccinations — this protects both her and your resident animals https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/cornell-feline-health-center/health-information. Once everyone is cleared, follow a gradual approach:
Never rush this process. A slow introduction is almost always faster in the long run than repairing a bad first impression between animals.
Understanding what's normal kitten behavior makes it much easier to redirect the parts that don't work for your household.
Young kittens explore the world with their mouths — including your hands and ankles. Mouthing is normal and shouldn't be punished, but your kitten does need to learn what's off-limits. When she bites or scratches inappropriately:
This kind of training requires patience and repetition. No kitten learns "one and done." Consistent, calm reinforcement over weeks is what builds lasting habits.
Protecting your furniture: If your sofa is getting an unwanted makeover, place a scratching post directly next to the spot she's targeting. Once she's using the post reliably, you can gradually move it to a more convenient location.
Getting your kitten comfortable with being handled — not just for cuddles, but for grooming — is one of the most valuable things you can do early on. A kitten who tolerates brushing and nail trims calmly is a much easier cat to care for throughout her life.
Brushing: Use a brush appropriate for your kitten's coat type. A Maine Coon's dense, long coat needs a sturdier tool than a British Shorthair's plush, shorter fur. Keep a high-value treat reserved specifically for after grooming sessions so your kitten associates the experience with something she enjoys.
Nail trims: Start handling your kitten's paws early and often — even when you're not trimming — so the sensation becomes familiar. Use cat-specific nail clippers and trim only the clear tip of the nail, avoiding the pink quick. If you're unsure, ask a Petco-knowledgeable groomer to walk you through it the first time.
Bathing: Cats are largely self-grooming, and most kittens won't need a full bath unless they get into something messy. Spot cleaning is usually sufficient. For eye discharge ("eye goopies"), use a warm, damp washcloth or cotton ball to gently wipe from the inner corner outward — once or twice a day as needed. If discharge is excessive, discolored or your kitten seems uncomfortable, consult your veterinarian.
When to call your vet: Any grooming session that reveals lumps, skin irritation, unusual discharge or signs of pain is worth a veterinary conversation. Your vet is always your best resource for anything that looks or feels off.
How often should I feed a kitten? Feeding frequency depends on age. From weaning to 6 months, offer wet food three to four times a day or leave dry kibble available for free-choice nibbling. From 6 to 9 months, growth slows — watch portions carefully to avoid overfeeding. From 9 to 12 months, begin transitioning to an adult formula. Always confirm your kitten's exact needs with your veterinarian, since individual size and health can affect requirements. https://www.merckvetmanual.com/management-and-nutrition/nutrition-small-animals/nutritional-requirements-of-small-animals
What should I look for on a kitten food label? Choose a kitten food that carries an AAFCO nutritional adequacy statement confirming it is "complete and balanced" for growth or "all life stages." This statement means the food has been formulated or tested to meet a kitten's specific nutritional needs — not just an adult cat's. https://www.aafco.org/consumers/understanding-pet-food/
When does a kitten need vaccines? Most kittens receive their first core vaccinations around 8 weeks of age, often before adoption from a shelter. A series of boosters typically follows every 3 to 4 weeks until about 16 weeks of age, with a rabies vaccine included per your state's requirements. Your veterinarian will build a schedule tailored to your kitten's age, lifestyle and local disease risks. https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/cornell-feline-health-center/health-information
How do I stop a kitten from biting and scratching? Biting and scratching are normal kitten behaviors — kittens explore and play with their mouths and paws. Redirect the behavior immediately by offering a toy instead of your hand, and end playtime calmly if biting continues. Never use your fingers as toys, and avoid rough play that encourages grabbing. Providing a sturdy scratching post gives your kitten an appropriate outlet for their claws. Consistent, patient redirection during kittenhood makes a significant difference in adult behavior. [VERIFY]
When can a kitten be spayed or neutered? Many veterinarians recommend having kittens spayed or neutered between 4 and 6 months of age, before they reach sexual maturity, though some shelters perform the procedure earlier. Talk with your veterinarian about the timing that is right for your kitten's breed, size and overall health. https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/cornell-feline-health-center/health-information
Are any common household plants or foods toxic to kittens? Yes — cats are carnivores with a limited ability to metabolize many compounds that are harmless to humans. Lilies (all parts) are among the most dangerous plants for cats and can cause acute kidney failure. Common foods to keep away from kittens include onions, garlic, grapes, raisins, xylitol and chocolate. If you suspect your kitten has ingested something toxic, contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center immediately. https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control
This article was created with assistance from AI tools and reviewed for accuracy by Petco's content team.