My turtle has a neck dent and won't bask. Is it serious? What to do?

This may be localized infection or inflammation. It could also be an old injury. Keep the area clean. You can use a diluted Betadine or chlorhexidine (Hibiclens) solution to gently clean the area daily. Maintain pristine water quality via filtration and regular partial water changes. Check temps in the tank as well. Low temps can affect appetite in reptiles. You can review slider care at the links below. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Red-Eared-Slider-Care-Sheet/ http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html

You can use a soft bristled toothbrush to gently scrub the area. Maintain clean water and provide a health, balanced diet along with adequate UVB lighting and vitamin supplementation. all these will promote shell and overall health. Monitor for spread, bleeding, lethargy, loss of appetite, softness or pitting. These are symptoms that should be addressed by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. If you can provide the species of turtle and an image or two in a new post, we may be able to provide more specific advice.

If it appeared and grew rapidly, have Sandy examined by your veterinarian or a vet experience din treating reptiles. A fine needle aspirate can be done in the clinic to collect samples for pathology. This may diagnose infection, inflammation, a malignancy or a benign mass. In the meantime, provide pristine water conditions to prevent infection. A proper diet UVB light and heat supply are essential for good health and digestion. You can find a care sheet at the link below. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Turtles-Tortoises/Turtle-Care/Pink-Belly-Side-Neck-Turtle/

-Make sure she has a good quality UV light above her no more than 12"- it should be a tube light and not a screw in kind, like a ReptiSun. Change it every 6 months. -If she won't get up to bask, make the area more inviting- put a larger platform, make sure you have a good heat light above that area, make it easy for her to get out, make sure nothing stressed her or scares her back into he water. -If it doesn't work to get her basking and then you may need to dry dock her part of the day- take her out of the water and let her bask in an empty tub or aquarium with her heat and UV lights on above her so she really dries out (make sure to leave her a cool side to go where it is not as hot so she doesn't overheat.) - You can try to soak her in dilute Betadine solution- you can purchase Betadine at the drug store and add a small amount to water to make a weak tea color and soak in water just deep enough to cover her back end 5-10 minutes once daily. This may help if their is infection under the scutes. -If these things are not working and more scutes are loose, then she needs to see a vet for an exam and possibly antibiotics.

Turtles need more than a heat lamp for good health. Basic requirements include: clean water, a water heater, UVB light, basking platform, balanced diet and vitamins and minerals. Sunlight is good, however window panes and tank glass block most of the beneficial UVA/UVB rays that turtles need to synthesize Vitamin D3 and to properly utilize calcium. A good UVB bulb should be placed above the tank no more than 12-14 inches away from the basking area. It should not be blocked by glass, Plexiglass or fine mesh. The peeling and white spots may be due to poor water quality, poor diet, lack of UVB lighting or a combination of the three. Keep water clean via filtration and weekly partial water changes. Scoop out uneaten food daily. The filter should be rated for at least twice the volume of the tank since turtles can be very messy. You may be able to get Shelby to eat greens if you offer them about an hour or two after the heat lamp comes on in the morning. This will give her time to warm up. A cold reptile will not eat. Dice the greens and vegetables into manageable pieces. they should be dusted several times weekly with a calcium supplement and a multivitamin. Once she eats the greens, you can offer pellets and protein (feeder fish, nightcrawlers, crickets, raw beef heart, etc.). The spots can be gently scrubbed daily using a soft bristled brush and diluted Betadine or chlorhexidine (Hibiclens). Allow for a 1-2 hour dry dock (out of the water) after each cleaning.If it doesn't improve or if Shelby becomes lethargic or stops eating, then have her examined by a your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. Since most aquatic turtles are red eared sliders or yellow bellied sliders, I have included a link regarding care and keeping below. If you have a different species, post a new question with the species or request a consultation and we can discuss the case in greater detail. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html

Keep the water as clean as possible. You may need to empty and scrub the tank then perform partial water changes frequently. If you can handle it safely, gently scrub the spot with a dilute betadine solution. Allow him to dry thoroughly afterwards. Do this daily for two weeks. If the water changes and scrubbing don't work, dissolve 2 tablespoons of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Per gallon of water in a large basin and dip him in it. Allow him to dry before returning to his main tank. Do this daily for two weeks. If the spot still doesn't clear up or if it spreads, he will need to be physically examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet.

White spots on an aquatic turtle is often related to husbandry - most specifically the quality of the water. Aquatic turtles can be very dirty, and therefore they challenge most water filtration systems and it can be difficult to keep the water clean. I would recommend reviewing your husbandry with a care sheet, such as those for soft shelled turtles on Reptiles Magazine's website, and ensuring that it is as perfect as possible. You can see if the white spots are attached or if there is something just growing on the surface of your turtle - you can use Q-tips or a cloth to try to gently wipe them off, but be careful that you don't wipe too hard and hurt the turtle, and use caution in case Shiro tries to bite while you are trying this. If the white spots do not come off, I would recommend that Shiro is seen by a veterinarian. The spots may be bacterial or fungal growth from water quality problems, as mentioned above, but they may also be a growth of tissue as well. A veterinarian can sample the area, and look at the material under the microscope to determine what it is composed of. From there, they can make recommendations about diagnostic tests or treatments that can be used.