My salamander is sick, won't eat, and has a chin lump. What to do?

The bumps could be infection (bacterial or fungal). An iguana that won't eat should be examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp veterinarian. Make sure the temp in the enclosure is warm enough. Low temps can affect appetite. Symptoms may indicate MBD (metabolic bone disease), but this should be diagnosed by the vet. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will treat or prevent mild dehydration and may help with shedding. If bloodwork shows low calcium, your vet can dispense or administer calcium supplementation.

I am sorry that Snappy isn't feeling well! Reptiles can take a long time to show that they are sick, and often the signs that they are sick can be subtle, such as a decreased (or lack of) appetite. With what you are seeing, it may be that Snappy has been hiding his illness from you for a while. I would recommend having him evaluated by a veterinarian. They will likely ask you a great deal about Snappy's husbandry, as this is very important in reptiles. If the husbandry isn't perfect, often they can get very sick. They can perform a thorough examination, and can evaluate the brown spots that you are seeing. They may be able to take a sample of the areas, and evaluate the material under the microscope to see what it is. Also, they may recommend other diagnostic testing, including radiographs (x-rays) and blood work to evaluate systemic health. I hope this gives you a place to start, and I hope that Snappy feels better soon.

There are several possibilities including bacterial or fungal overgrowth. Check the temperature of the enclosure. Tigers do well between 50F and 75F. Anything above 80F for an extended period of time can predispose them to heat stress. Change the substrate completely. Normally, this should be done every 3-4 months. Spot clean poop whenever you can. The best substrate is an organic, pesticide/fertilizer free topsoil or local topsoil. Coconut fiber, or coir, can be used but will require more frequent maintenance or changing. The substrate should be moist but not dripping if you squeeze a handful. Depth should be a minimum of 5 inches. Once any corrections are made, if required, monitor your salamander for more spots. If they return or if your salamander remains lethargic, consider an exam with your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet to diagnose illness or injury.

The easiest thing to do is to check tank temperature. Low temps can affect appetite in reptiles. Next, look in and around the mouth for signs of infection or injury. This may include redness, swelling, bruising, bleeding or discharge. If you see anything suspicious, you'll need to have your lizard physically examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. For now, soak in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte for 15-20 minutes daily. This will provide warmth and hydration. Be sure to feed appropriately sized prey, no bigger than the space between the eyes.

Clean and sanitize the tank. Replace ALL the substrate with fresh organic topsoil or coco fiber. Do not use vermiculite or perlite. Avoid gravel, sand or wood chips. Ideal temperature ranges between 68F and 78F with the cooler end reserved for nighttime. Mist the cage several times weekly to maintain humidity. Provide a water bowl and clean it daily. Soak him in a tepid (75F) 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will provide warmth and hydration. A cold frog will not eat. Afterwards, offer live food. Something with a lot of movement like nightcrawlers or mealworms. If he still doesn't eat, have him examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles and amphibians.

Check the temperature in his enclosure. Low temps can affect appetite in reptiles. If he isn't eating or not exposed to high quality UVB lighting, he can become calcium deficient which could account for the tremors. If he is less than 30 inches long, confirm a basking temp of around 115 F. If he is bigger, bump basking temp to between 125 F and 135 F. Multiple lower wattage lights over a larger area are recommended over one high intensity light source. Try to get him to eat and offer a calcium supplement. If you can get a liquid supplement, that would be best right now. Zoo Med and Fluker's offer such a supplement.Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte to treat or prevent minor dehydration. if he doesn't eat or if the tremors worsen, have him examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles as soon as possible.

This could be due to a trauma and or a bacterial or fungal infection. Swab the infected area of the shell with a diluted povidone-iodine solution twice daily. Scrape away the infected area gently with a blunt tool or a cotton pad. If this time of first line treatment does not help and you do not see any improvement in 48hours a check up at your local veterinarian would be required as antibiotic ointment and more aggressive treatment may be needed. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.