Why does my red-eared slider have white patches on its shell?

Thanks for reaching out about Squirt and including a photo. The two most common causes of this are mineral accumulations with hard water and exposed bone. Mineral accumulations you should be able to scratch off with a fingernail. Water source might need to be changed to filtered water or commercially available spring water. Exposed bone is usually due to poor water quality (high bacterial or algal loads) that erode the keratin layer. Water changes need to be made more often, but a veterinary visit is recommended as systemic antibiotics might be required. Good luck.

Thanks for reaching out about Kelby and including photos. Can you gently scratch the white areas with your fingernail? Is so, probably mineral accumulations from the water and not a problem. If not, this could be keratin erosion from sub-standard water quality, infections, too cold of an environment. A veterinary visit would be recommended. Good luck.

If you have exceptionally "hard" water, it could be calcium deposits, but you would likely have noticed it prior to or during the transfer. Have the water tested to be sure. Dry dock them for 2-3 hours a day for the next few days and see if that makes a difference. You can use a soft bristled brush and some diluted chlorhexidine (Hibiclens) to gently scrub the shells before dry docking. Continue to monitor for lethargy, decreased appetite and softness or pitting on the shells. See your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles for a physical exam if necessary.

It could be some minor shell rot. Use a soft bristled toothbrush and some diluted betadine or chlorhexidine (Hibiclens) to scrub the affected area once or twice daily. Allow for a 1 hour dry dock (out of the water) after each cleaning. Maintain pristine water quality via filtration and regular partial water changes. If the spots do not resolve or if they spread, have Squirtle physically examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. A UVB light source, calcium powder and multivitamin will promote shell health. You can also float a piece of cuttlebone in the tank for him to munch on as needed. It will provide additional calcium. Find the cuttlebone in the Bird section of the local Petco. The link below will provide additional information regarding the care of sliders. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html

Turtles need more than a heat lamp for good health. Basic requirements include: clean water, a water heater, UVB light, basking platform, balanced diet and vitamins and minerals. Sunlight is good, however window panes and tank glass block most of the beneficial UVA/UVB rays that turtles need to synthesize Vitamin D3 and to properly utilize calcium. A good UVB bulb should be placed above the tank no more than 12-14 inches away from the basking area. It should not be blocked by glass, Plexiglass or fine mesh. The peeling and white spots may be due to poor water quality, poor diet, lack of UVB lighting or a combination of the three. Keep water clean via filtration and weekly partial water changes. Scoop out uneaten food daily. The filter should be rated for at least twice the volume of the tank since turtles can be very messy. You may be able to get Shelby to eat greens if you offer them about an hour or two after the heat lamp comes on in the morning. This will give her time to warm up. A cold reptile will not eat. Dice the greens and vegetables into manageable pieces. they should be dusted several times weekly with a calcium supplement and a multivitamin. Once she eats the greens, you can offer pellets and protein (feeder fish, nightcrawlers, crickets, raw beef heart, etc.). The spots can be gently scrubbed daily using a soft bristled brush and diluted Betadine or chlorhexidine (Hibiclens). Allow for a 1-2 hour dry dock (out of the water) after each cleaning.If it doesn't improve or if Shelby becomes lethargic or stops eating, then have her examined by a your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. Since most aquatic turtles are red eared sliders or yellow bellied sliders, I have included a link regarding care and keeping below. If you have a different species, post a new question with the species or request a consultation and we can discuss the case in greater detail. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html

Thank you for the pictures - they are very helpful. I am sorry that this is happening to Finley! Her shell looks very dry - I am not sure if you dried her for the picture, or if she is not hanging out in her water enough. If she is not utilizing her water source enough, that could cause her shell to get dry and flaky. With your description of the shell looking cloudy and white underneath the layer, it could also be that there is an infection (bacterial, fungal) of the shell. If the water quality in Finley's enclosure is not adequate, this can result in infections. I would recommend that you take Finley to a veterinarian who is familiar with reptiles. To find one in your area, you can visit the ARAV website. The veterinarian will ask about Finley's husbandry set up and diet, and will perform a thorough examination of her. They then can take samples of the flaky, white, cloudy areas of the shell to evaluate for culture to determine if there is an infectious reason for it to look abnormal. They may also prescribe treatments, such as antibiotics, or have suggestions for husbandry changes, depending on what they find. Please do not give Finely any human medications, as they can be harmful for our scaled friends. I hope that gives you a place to start, and I hope Finley feels better soon!

Cracking can be due to infection, poor water quality or poor nutrition/lighting. Have Shelly examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose and treat any infection. Signs include pitting, bleeding or a very soft shell. Half the diet should be plant matter with one quarter made up of commercial sticks or pellets and one quarter animal protein. UVB lighting should be provided and water quality maintained. You can follow this link to an article about proper care and nutrition for sliders. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html