My red-eared slider has black spots on its shell. What's the cause?

It could be some minor shell rot. Use a soft bristled toothbrush and some diluted betadine or chlorhexidine (Hibiclens) to scrub the affected area once or twice daily. Allow for a 1 hour dry dock (out of the water) after each cleaning. Maintain pristine water quality via filtration and regular partial water changes. If the spots do not resolve or if they spread, have Squirtle physically examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. A UVB light source, calcium powder and multivitamin will promote shell health. You can also float a piece of cuttlebone in the tank for him to munch on as needed. It will provide additional calcium. Find the cuttlebone in the Bird section of the local Petco. The link below will provide additional information regarding the care of sliders. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html

You can use a soft bristled toothbrush to gently scrub the area. Maintain clean water and provide a health, balanced diet along with adequate UVB lighting and vitamin supplementation. all these will promote shell and overall health. Monitor for spread, bleeding, lethargy, loss of appetite, softness or pitting. These are symptoms that should be addressed by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. If you can provide the species of turtle and an image or two in a new post, we may be able to provide more specific advice.

Turtles need more than a heat lamp for good health. Basic requirements include: clean water, a water heater, UVB light, basking platform, balanced diet and vitamins and minerals. Sunlight is good, however window panes and tank glass block most of the beneficial UVA/UVB rays that turtles need to synthesize Vitamin D3 and to properly utilize calcium. A good UVB bulb should be placed above the tank no more than 12-14 inches away from the basking area. It should not be blocked by glass, Plexiglass or fine mesh. The peeling and white spots may be due to poor water quality, poor diet, lack of UVB lighting or a combination of the three. Keep water clean via filtration and weekly partial water changes. Scoop out uneaten food daily. The filter should be rated for at least twice the volume of the tank since turtles can be very messy. You may be able to get Shelby to eat greens if you offer them about an hour or two after the heat lamp comes on in the morning. This will give her time to warm up. A cold reptile will not eat. Dice the greens and vegetables into manageable pieces. they should be dusted several times weekly with a calcium supplement and a multivitamin. Once she eats the greens, you can offer pellets and protein (feeder fish, nightcrawlers, crickets, raw beef heart, etc.). The spots can be gently scrubbed daily using a soft bristled brush and diluted Betadine or chlorhexidine (Hibiclens). Allow for a 1-2 hour dry dock (out of the water) after each cleaning.If it doesn't improve or if Shelby becomes lethargic or stops eating, then have her examined by a your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. Since most aquatic turtles are red eared sliders or yellow bellied sliders, I have included a link regarding care and keeping below. If you have a different species, post a new question with the species or request a consultation and we can discuss the case in greater detail. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html

The peeling scutes may be normal shedding. Do not attempt to remove them yourself. Maintain pristine water quality. You can use a soft bristled tooth brush and a diluted Betadine solution to gently scrub the shell or affected areas. Allow for a 1 hour dry dock (out of the water) after each cleaning. If the UVB bulb has been in use longer than 6 months, replace it. Make sure it is not blocked by fine mesh, glass or plexiglass. Provide a balanced diet including prey, fresh greens and vegetables and a commercial pelleted diet. Dust food and prey with both a multivitamin and a calcium supplement regularly.

If you have exceptionally "hard" water, it could be calcium deposits, but you would likely have noticed it prior to or during the transfer. Have the water tested to be sure. Dry dock them for 2-3 hours a day for the next few days and see if that makes a difference. You can use a soft bristled brush and some diluted chlorhexidine (Hibiclens) to gently scrub the shells before dry docking. Continue to monitor for lethargy, decreased appetite and softness or pitting on the shells. See your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles for a physical exam if necessary.

Thanks for reaching out about Squirt and including a photo. The two most common causes of this are mineral accumulations with hard water and exposed bone. Mineral accumulations you should be able to scratch off with a fingernail. Water source might need to be changed to filtered water or commercially available spring water. Exposed bone is usually due to poor water quality (high bacterial or algal loads) that erode the keratin layer. Water changes need to be made more often, but a veterinary visit is recommended as systemic antibiotics might be required. Good luck.

Looks can be deceiving, but the shell looks fine in the picture provided. "Heathy" is more than just a clean shell though. He should be eating and defecating normally, basking regularly and swimming. There should be no redness or pitting on the shell. Provide clean water at proper temp, a basking spot also at proper temp, UVB lighting and an appropriate diet. You can review the article at the link below to confirm correct husbandry. http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html