My leopard gecko isn't eating, losing weight, has bad shedding, can't walk.

Leopard geckos can generally co-exist with one another as long as they are male-female pairs or two/more females. They usually do not become territorial while they are young. That being said it is important to make sure they have enough space to escape each other and have more than one hiding area. .If you see bullying, you may need to separate them.

The bump could be local infection or irritation. Monitor it for change or growth. Symptoms to look for are redness, increased swelling, bruising or sensitivity on that side. Make sure you don't have two males as this could lead to stress or bullying which can affect appetite. If you do have two males, provide a larger enclosure with multiple hides for them to use. Feed them separately if you can and use a kitchen scale to monitor the weight of the skinnier gecko. See your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles if there is no weight gain or weight loss. Submit a stool sample to diagnose intestinal parasites.

Most species of geckos, being nocturnal, do not require UVB lighting. Being cold blooded though, they do need a heat source. Your body temp will not be sufficient for good health. Replace the light/heat source with an appropriate bulb. You can easily buy one online or at most pet stores. Low temps will stress him which can lead to illness. Low temps also affect appetite activity and digestion. Sexing geckos is fairly easy. An adult male will have a bulge behind the vent that is very noticeable. You will also see a row of femoral pores shaped like a "V" in front of the vent in male geckos. Since he is going into a shed, provide a moist hide in the enclosure and/or increase the humidity temporarily. These two species look similar but there are differences. To help with identification, closely exam your gecko. Leos will lose their bands and develop spots, hence the name, as they mature. They also get much bigger than banded geckos. Leos also have rougher, bumpier skin as opposed to a banded gecko's smoother skin. If you post a picture of him on his profile, we can possibly determine what species of geckos you own.

I commend you for rescuing those Leos! Female leopard geckos may live together peacefully as long as they have a large enough enclosure. Males should not be housed together as they will fight. If you have a male and female, they should be separated until the female is at least 55 grams, which is the minimum weight recommended for breeding. I would guess they may be about 3-5 months old. Hatchlings typically weigh 2-5 grams for reference. There is no "standard" since leos will grow at different rates depending on dietary and environmental factors. You can determine sex by looking underneath. Males have noticeably distinct femoral pores and pre-anal pores. The base of their tail will have two hemipenal bumps as well. You can review leopard gecko care here: http://www.anapsid.org/leopardgek.html

He may have a retained eye cap which could be the cause of those symptoms. Check temps in the cage. Low temps may affect appetite and activity in reptiles. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte for 15-20 minutes. This will provide warmth and may treat or prevent minor dehydration. It may also help is he has any residual shed. You can also massage his abdomen, front to back, during the soak to stimulate defecation. I see you use sand as a substrate, so an impaction is always a concern. Pick up some Fluker's Repta Boost or Oxbow Carnivore Care from the local pet store. This is a better option than baby food. If he doesn't start eating in the next few days or if the eye does not improve, have him seen by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles.

Make sure any prey is appropriately sized, no bigger than the space between his eyes. They should be gut loaded for at least 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. Consider adding LaFeber’s Emeraid for Carnivores, Oxbow’s Carnivore Critical Care or Fluker's Repti-Boost to get weight on him. Submit a stool sample to your herp veterinarian to diagnose intestinal parasites. If there are cryptosporidium in his stool, they may be responsible for his condition.

Have him examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet. Submit a stool sample to diagnose intestinal parasites. This will all give you a better idea of his health status. Barring any major illness or injury, he could be rehabbed and live a "normal" life. Set him up in an appropriate enclosure with correct parameters. Offer appropriately sized and gut loaded prey as well as some Fluker's Repti-Boost. Soak in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte daily for 20-30 minutes to maintain hydration. It may take time, but with a healthy diet, proper environment and some care, he could recover.