Is it normal for my juvenile swift to not eat crickets daily?

Offer appropriately sized prey, no bigger than the space between the eyes. Confirm proper temperature as well. Low temps can affect appetite and digestion in reptiles. Be sure to dust prey at every feeding with a multivitamin and calcium supplements. Gutloading prey for 24 hours will also maximize nutritional value. Do not be concerned if she refuses food for one day.

Check the temperature in his enclosure. Low temps can affect appetite in reptiles. Offer prey about 2 hours after the heat lamp turns on in the morning. Make sure he is well hydrated by soaking or misting him regularly. It may be a preference. If he is eating the Repashy CGD regularly, don't worry too much about him eating crickets or not.

Typically bearded dragons should be able to catch and eating moving crickets. It is possible that your bearded dragon was no hungry or if they are feet lots of treats sometimes they won't always eat crickets. I typically feed my bearded dragon crickets in his normal enclosure. I would recommend trying to just put the crickets into his normal home and see if he does better eating them. If he continues to not eat crickets I would recommend taking him to a vet to make sure he does not have an injury in his mouth like fungal or bacterial disease. I hope that helps

Make sure the crickets aren't too big. They should be no bigger than the space between Medusa's eyes. Confirm proper temperature as well. Reptiles need adequate warmth to digest food. Low temps will affect appetite and activity. She should be fed twice daily. Gut load prey for 24 hours prior to feeding. Dust with vitamins/minerals every other day. Vegetables can also be offered every other day.

Crestview can eat crickets, but feeding solely crickets is not a healthy or balanced diet. At most, feed 5-7 appropriately sized crickets twice a week. The majority of the diet should be a crested gecko diet, such as one from Pangea or Repashy. If she doesn't get stressed being moved, you can feed her in a separate container if that is easier for you.

Feed less and less often. Consider skipping a day or two between feedings. Offer appropriately sized prey (crickets,earthworms, waxworms, etc). Generally, you don't want to feed anything bigger than the width of their heads. Maintain water quality via filtration and/or water changes. Amphibians are very sensitive to poor water quality and can get sick quickly.

He looks healthy, but looks can be deceiving. Chameleons are very active to begin with, plus being in a new environment may be stressful for him. You can feed 5-7 crickets at each feeding. Gut load them for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. You can also offer dubia roaches, wax worms and butter worms. All prey should be no larger than the space between the eyes.