My new bearded dragon has a black beard and won't eat. Is it stressed?

With that black beard, he does seem stressed. Check temps in the cage. Low temps can affect activity in reptiles. Survey the area in and around the enclosure for any negative stimuli. This may include loud noises, strong vibrations, cold drafts or high traffic. reduce or eliminate any if found. You can review dragon care at the links below. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Bearded-Dragon/

Submit a stool sample to diagnose intestinal parasites. Monitor Drogon for difficulty breathing, blowing bubbles, lethargy, or odd sounds while breathing. These are symptoms of an upper respiratory infection. Parasites or URI may cause the condition you are seeing. Bump cage temps up by about 5F for a few days. Soak him in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte twice daily for 15-20 minutes. Make sure the UVB light source is not older than 6 months and use quality vitamin and mineral supplements. If Drogon gets worse or does not begin eating soon, have him examined by an experienced herp veterinarian.

The stress associated with new surroundings can certainly affect appetite. Low temperatures can also affect activity, appetite and digestion in reptiles. Give Lightning a few days to acclimate. Confirm adequate temps, both basking and ambient, in his enclosure. You can also survey the area around the cage for any negative stimuli, reducing or eliminating them if possible. Continue to offer fresh greens, fruits and appropriately sized prey. Warm soaks in a 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte may treat or prevent mild dehydration. The soaks will also warm him up and, if you massage his abdomen during the soaks, they can stimulate defecation.

This color change is usually due to stress but could be due to other things as well such as improper temperature, diet, etc. I strongly suggest you review all your husbandry to make sure you are doing everything correctly. Refer to this link. ( https://www.lizards101.com/why-is-my-bearded-dragon-turning-black/ )

Some of it depends on the age of the beardie. If young, make sure any live food is small enough for it. Meal works, crickets or even pinkie mice Here's a good recipe for a reptile salad. Basic Salad Recipe 1/2 cup shredded raw green beans 1/2 cup shredded raw orange-fleshed squash (such as acorn, banana, kabocha, spaghetti, and pumpkin) - you can occasionally alternate with carrots 1 medium or 2 small raw shredded parsnips (in areas where these are seasonally hard to find, you can substitute with asparagus or cooked or canned lima, navy or kidney beans that have been well rinsed and minced or mashed. If you use beans, add extra calcium to offset their high phosphorus) * 1/4 cup mashed/minced fruit (strawberries, raspberries, mangos, papaya, figs, cantaloupe, cactus pear) Alfalfa ** Multivitamin and calcium supplements * If parsnips are a seasonal vegetable where you live, you can use 1/2 cup shredded asparagus, trading off with 1/2 cup drained, rinsed, and chopped canned cooked lima beans, plus additional calcium to make up for the lousy calcium:phosphorus ratio in beans. Cooked beans are acceptable for short term use only due to their phosphorous content and other chemicals that can impede the uptake of minerals and trace elements. Asparagus is comparable in protein to parsnip, but does contain oxalates, so should not be a long-term staple. ** The quantity of alfalfa you use will depend upon the alfalfa product you are using. You want to add about 15 grams of protein. That is about 1/2 cup of alfalfa rabbit pellets, or about 1/4 cup or less of alfalfa leaf tea or a tablespoon or so of alfalfa powder. The older the healthy iguana is, the less protein they need, so you may end up using only a couple of teaspoons for an adult iguana. Thoroughly mix all the Basic Salad Recipe ingredients together. Makes about 3.5-4 cups. Add in a multivitamin supplement (any multivitamin supplement for birds or reptiles is fine, but the best, actually, is powder from a crushed Centrum tablet) and a calcium supplement. You do not need to get a calcium supplement that has phosphorous or D3 in it, as the iguana is already getting considerably phosphorous from the plants and multivitamin, and their D3 is best manufactured in their bodies by regular exposure to direct sunlight or special UVB-producing fluorescents. And more good info on husbandry and feeding isnhere. If temperature is not correct they also may not eat. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html

I commend you on adopting such a wonderful creature! She may need time to adjust to her new home and enclosure. Make sure it is large enough for her and located away from loud noises, vibrations, direct sunlight or high traffic areas. The commercial pellets are an excellent diet. You should also offer dark, leafy greens, diced vegetables and prey such as crickets or dubia roaches. These can be purchased from your local pet store. Gut load prey for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. Dust with a calcium supplement 3-5 times per week. Use a multivitamin 2-3 times per week. Make sure the temperature in her enclosure is appropriate. Low temps can affect appetite and activity in reptiles. The cage should be in the mid 70s F on the cool side and mid to high 80s F on the warm side. A basking spot of 90-100 F is recommended. She will also need a UVB light source running the length of her cage and about 12-14 inches away. This is vital for calcium, metabolism. You can soak her in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte for 20-30 minutes to warm her up and to rehydrate her. If her appetite does not return, have her rechecked by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose illness or injury. Submit a stool sample to diagnose intestinal parasites.

Check temps in the enclosure first. Low temps can affect digestion which could lead to regurgitation. It can also cause stress resulting in the black beard. Other potential causes include impaction, constipation, overeating (less likely with a decreased appetite) or infection (bacterial, viral, parasites). Survey the area in and around the enclosure for other negative stimuli. Reduce or eliminate if found. Continue soaks in a 50/50 mix of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will provide supplemental heat and may treat or prevent minor dehydration. Gently massage the abdomen, front to back, during the soak to stimulate defecation. If symptoms persist, have him examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. Submit a stool sample to diagnose intestinal parasites or bacterial overgrowth. Your vet may recommend x-rays to rule out or diagnose impaction, tumors or foreign body.