My baby Chinese water dragons won't eat. How can I get them to start?

Thanks for reaching out about Perceval and including a photo. First, check heat and other husbandry parameters, and fix any concerns. If too cold, there appetite center is depressed. Reptiles will often not eat because of other illnesses such as intestinal parasites or infections, kidney disease, dental disease, etc. A veterinary visit is recommended to help. On the photo, Perceval appears thin. Offering a Gerber's baby food (chicken, beef etc) might provide some nutrition until the primary cause is determined. Good luck.

Confirm proper temperatures. Low temps can affect activity, appetite and digestion in reptiles. Soak Jax in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will provide heat and may treat or prevent mild dehydration. Be sure prey is appropriately sized, no bigger than the space between the eyes. Look for pinhead crickets or freshly hatched/molted dubia roaches. Gutload them for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. Fluker's Repti-Boost can be used as a supplement. If Jax does not begin eating, have him examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet to diagnose illness or injury.

Submit a stool sample to your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet to diagnose intestinal parasites or bacterial overgrowth. Confirm proper environmental parameters. Low temperatures can affect activity, appetite and digestion in reptiles. Soak him in a warm 50 /50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte for 20 minutes. This can warm him up and may treat or prevent minor dehydration. Offer appropriately sized crickets and mealworms as well as fresh, chopped greens and fruits. Follow the link below for more information regarding care. http://www.anapsid.org/waterdragons.html

Check the temperature in the cage. Low temps will affect appetite in reptiles. Next, make sure prey are appropriately sized. they should be no bigger than the space between her eyes. If she is chilled, soak her in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will provide heat and hydration. Supplement her diet with a product such as Fluker's Repta-Boost. You can find it in the local Petco ( https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/flukers-reptaboost-insectavore-and-carnivore-high-amp-boost ). Review dragon care at the link below. http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Bearded-Dragon/

Make sure the crickets aren't too big. They should be no bigger than the space between Medusa's eyes. Confirm proper temperature as well. Reptiles need adequate warmth to digest food. Low temps will affect appetite and activity. She should be fed twice daily. Gut load prey for 24 hours prior to feeding. Dust with vitamins/minerals every other day. Vegetables can also be offered every other day.

She may continue to lay eggs through the breeding season regardless of whether or not there is a male present. Increase her diet and calcium supplementation. Waxworms can be used, albeit sparingly, to get some weight back on her. Feed mealworms, crickets, dubia roaches and Phoenix worms. Gut load all prey for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value.

Some of it depends on the age of the beardie. If young, make sure any live food is small enough for it. Meal works, crickets or even pinkie mice Here's a good recipe for a reptile salad. Basic Salad Recipe 1/2 cup shredded raw green beans 1/2 cup shredded raw orange-fleshed squash (such as acorn, banana, kabocha, spaghetti, and pumpkin) - you can occasionally alternate with carrots 1 medium or 2 small raw shredded parsnips (in areas where these are seasonally hard to find, you can substitute with asparagus or cooked or canned lima, navy or kidney beans that have been well rinsed and minced or mashed. If you use beans, add extra calcium to offset their high phosphorus) * 1/4 cup mashed/minced fruit (strawberries, raspberries, mangos, papaya, figs, cantaloupe, cactus pear) Alfalfa ** Multivitamin and calcium supplements * If parsnips are a seasonal vegetable where you live, you can use 1/2 cup shredded asparagus, trading off with 1/2 cup drained, rinsed, and chopped canned cooked lima beans, plus additional calcium to make up for the lousy calcium:phosphorus ratio in beans. Cooked beans are acceptable for short term use only due to their phosphorous content and other chemicals that can impede the uptake of minerals and trace elements. Asparagus is comparable in protein to parsnip, but does contain oxalates, so should not be a long-term staple. ** The quantity of alfalfa you use will depend upon the alfalfa product you are using. You want to add about 15 grams of protein. That is about 1/2 cup of alfalfa rabbit pellets, or about 1/4 cup or less of alfalfa leaf tea or a tablespoon or so of alfalfa powder. The older the healthy iguana is, the less protein they need, so you may end up using only a couple of teaspoons for an adult iguana. Thoroughly mix all the Basic Salad Recipe ingredients together. Makes about 3.5-4 cups. Add in a multivitamin supplement (any multivitamin supplement for birds or reptiles is fine, but the best, actually, is powder from a crushed Centrum tablet) and a calcium supplement. You do not need to get a calcium supplement that has phosphorous or D3 in it, as the iguana is already getting considerably phosphorous from the plants and multivitamin, and their D3 is best manufactured in their bodies by regular exposure to direct sunlight or special UVB-producing fluorescents. And more good info on husbandry and feeding isnhere. If temperature is not correct they also may not eat. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html