My axolotl has white spots on her gills and leg. What should I do?

Check water chemistry and temperature first. Axolotls are very sensitive to changes in either. If ammonia or nitrites are elevated, perform partial water changes using conditioned water that is temperature matched. They do best between 60 F and 64 F. Water temp above 75 F is stressful. Fast her for a few days to see if she passes a large amount of stool. If she does, resume feeding her as scheduled. If she doesn't improve, consider "fridging" her to reduce stress and allow for recovery. You can read about the fridging routine at the link below. https://www.caudata.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85263

Thanks for reaching out about your axolotl. Fungal spore are ubiquitous in the environment but a UV sterilizer can help. There are anti-fungal treatments to add to the water or dip treatments that could also help. A veterinary visit is recommended to assess and provide a diagnostic/treatment plan. Fungal infections are usually secondary problems, so review environmental parameters such as water temperatures, pH, ammonia, nitrates and nitrites. Review diet to ensure well rounded nutrients. If wanted, you can arrange for a private consultation. Good luck.

Treating him yourself would not be recommended as you may cause injury. If the rock was small, he may eventually pass it. Maintain pristine water quality and proper temp. Monitor his appetite and stool output. If there is a veterinarian nearby with experience treating axolotls, then an exam would be strongly recommended in case surgery is required to remove the rock. Fridging Nox may also be recommended. You can read more about the process at the link below. https://www.caudata.org/axolotl-sanctuary/Fridging.shtml

There are several possibilities including bacterial or fungal overgrowth. Check the temperature of the enclosure. Tigers do well between 50F and 75F. Anything above 80F for an extended period of time can predispose them to heat stress. Change the substrate completely. Normally, this should be done every 3-4 months. Spot clean poop whenever you can. The best substrate is an organic, pesticide/fertilizer free topsoil or local topsoil. Coconut fiber, or coir, can be used but will require more frequent maintenance or changing. The substrate should be moist but not dripping if you squeeze a handful. Depth should be a minimum of 5 inches. Once any corrections are made, if required, monitor your salamander for more spots. If they return or if your salamander remains lethargic, consider an exam with your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet to diagnose illness or injury.

Thanks for reaching out about Cherub and including a picture. Amphibians are delicate animals and water quality is very important. Testing the wear quality regularly (at least once daily) for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are a must. Any abnormalities need to be addressed as soon as possible. Water also must be kept cool and stable. Amphibians do not do well with temperature changes. A varied insect diet also is important. Live insects, kept in good condition, will provide a wide variety of vitamins and mineral, protein and fat. Read up on what you need to do and b proactive with problems.

It could be early ich (white spot) infection or another infection (bacterial or fungal). To be safe, separate him into a quarantine tank and monitor for any change. You can treat for ich as you did it in the past if indicated. Bacterial and fungal infections have different treatments, so I would be hesitant to recommend a specific medication without more information or a definitive diagnosis. You can use plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or Epsom salt). As a general tonic to reduce stress, increase gill function, treat minor infection of many types and to aid in recovery. This can be added to the quarantine tank at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Treat for 10-14 days then reassess the condition.

Keep her in some clean water between 68 F and 77 F. Perform daily water changes using aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Clean water is the key to treating sick frogs. Aquarium salt is a great general tonic and can treat minor infection. Dissolve 1 tablespoon in 5 gallons of water and use that for water changes. You can add conditioners such as AmQuel and NovAqua as well as some StressCoat. She should begin to improve in a few days. Offer a few pellets daily, but remove them if she doesn't eat to prevent fouling the water.