Why is my Oscar fish gasping and hiding during ich treatment?

Make sure the charcoal/carbon is removed from the filter/tank for the duration of treatment or it will remove/absorb the medication. Try using metronidazole and kanamycin. There is metronidazole in the Parasite Guard but it may not be an adequate dose. Monitor water quality and keep nitrates below 20ppm if possible. Use only aged/conditioned water that is temperature an pH matched to reduce or prevent stress. Raise the water temp to the upper limit for Oscars and add a multivitamin. You can soak pellets prior to feeding. If you can find it, use VitaChem (by Boyds). Make sure Tiger is eating a biologically appropriate diet.

These are quite concerning but generic signs. The approach must be logic but quite radical at the same time. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Check the water chemistry and quality first. Elevated ammonia or nitrite levels can be toxic. Partial water changes can be done to stabilize and improve water chemistry. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. For goldfish, a range of 65F to 72F is recommended. Check the filter and rinse the sponge with tank water, not tap water, to spare beneficial bacterial populations and to maintain water quality. The tank may not be large enough to support 5 goldfish. Generally, 20 gallons should be allowed for the first goldfish then a 10 additional gallons should be provided for each additional goldfish. This is due to the larger than average bio load (wastes) they produce. Consider a larger tank or decrease the number of fish in one tank. Use a filter that is rated for at least twice the volume of the tank and add an airstone and pump for increased oxygenation. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt). Can be used as a general tonic. It will reduce stress, improve gill function, aid in any recovery and may treat or prevent minor infection. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 10-14 days. When performing water changes, add salt only to the amount of water being replaced, not the entire tank volume.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence ( 0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform partial water changes, no more than 30% at a time, to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Check water temp as well. Any of these can drive a fish to the surface. The "flashing" (darting about) can be due to infection (bacterial, fungal or parasites). Consider a broad spectrum antibiotic or an "all in one" product to treat multiple infections. Look in the Aquarium section of the local Petco for options. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.

Thanks for reaching out about your Oscar and including photos, but difficult to see the HLLE lesions due to too dark. The eye looks terrible and systemic antibiotics are recommended at the least. A veterinary visit is highly recommended to clean the wound and provide other possible treatments. The water quality must be kept pristine (pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates) to assist recovery. Antibiotics added to the water do not penetrate into the body, nor do fresh water fish drink, since osmotically water enters over mucous membranes (gills, mouth, skin) and antibiotics do not cross this barrier. HLLE causes can be multi-factorial including water quality, bacteria, parasites, carbon particles in activated charcoal (filters), low vitamin C, etc. Check and correct water quality, replace existing food if older than two months (vitamin C degrades quickly), see a veterinarian with fish experience. Good luck.

Increase the temp, gradually, to 86 F and hold it there for at least two weeks. This will speed up the ich lifecycle. When the parasite is free swimming is when it is most susceptible to treatment. Once the spots drop off your fish, perform a major water change and vacuum the substrate thoroughly. If you have live plants, remove them and gently wipe them down, if you have artificial plants, remove them and sanitize them. The same goes for any tank furniture. Use the ich medication according to label directions. Keep the water temp elevated for 3-5 days after treatment and after all symptoms have resolved. Gradually reduce water temp back to normal afterwards. There is no definitive way to determine if the infection is resolved. You will to monitor the fish closely and repeat the process if necessary.

If you put an Oscar in with your Tetras, they will be harassed and eventually eaten. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing to check chemistry. Aim for 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites with a nitrate level of 20ppm or less. It can be slightly higher if you have live plants. If there is still ammonia present, the tank is still cycling. The cloudiness may be micro-bubbles which will eventually resolve or it could be a bacterial bloom which will also resolve once the tank has cycled.