My flowerhorn has bloat and white stringy poop. What should I do?

The addition of live prey may have introduced parasites into your aquarium. It is also possible it was pre existing and an unknown stressor may have triggered active infection. Regardless, now you have to treat. Check water quality first. Poor water quality is a major cause of illness and it can also complicate any condition. Test a sample at home with a kit or submit a sample for testing. Most pet stores or aquarists will do this for free or for a nominal fee. Ammonia and nitrites should be 0 ppm (parts per million). Nitrates should be 40 ppm or less but for HITH, try for 10ppm or less. Perform partial water changes using aged or conditioned water that is temperature and pH matched to prevent shock and further stress until water parameters are acceptable. Metronidazole is the treatment of choice for HITH. It will kill Hexamita which is the parasite associated with HITH. You can purchase metronidazole for tanks online or in the aquarium section of most pet stores. Follow label directions carefully. Remove the charcoal from the filter during treatment. A broad spectrum antibiotic should also be used to prevent secondary infection. If you have other fish in the tank, monitor them for similar symptoms. A proper diet is also critical. A vitamin and mineral deficiency may predispose a fish to this condition. Use a fortified pelleted diet. You can soak food in garlic juice (or GarlicGuard by SeaChem) to boost the immune system and stimulate the appetite.

Parasites, constipation, stress or bacterial infection are all possibilities. Maintain adequate water quality. Continue with the salt treatment, it can decrease stress, aid healing and may treat minor infection. Consider a product such as PraziPro or General Cure by API to treat for parasites. Constipation can be managed with a 3 day fast followed by feeding bits of cooked, shelled green peas until defecation is normal and regular.

The bloating could be infection. It may also be parasitic infection, constipation or swim bladder disease. You cannot discount them being gravid (pregnant). Glo fish are egg layers, so they could be females readying to spawn (release eggs). First check water chemistry and quality. Clean water is critical to having healthy fish or to having fish recover from illness or injury. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or for a small fee. An established tank will have 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites with a nitrate level of 20 ppm or less. If your tank shows any level of ammonia or nitrites, perform a partial water change (no more than 30% total volume at a time) using conditioned water. Makebsurebit is temperature matched as well to prevent stress or shock. Glofish do best between 72 F and 80 F. Once water quality is squared away, fast the fish for 2-3 days, then feed tiny bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation and bloating. Feed peas until they are swimming normally and the bloating is resolved. If the peas don't help, try broad spectrum antibiotic, such as erythromycin or ampicillin. You can find either in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. An "all in one" product, such as Lifeguard (by Tetra) can also be used. This will treat multiple types of infection with one medication.

By your description, there may be seversl issues here. Check the water chemistry and quality. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Ideally, you want the following parameters: 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrites, 20 ppm or less nitrates, pH around 7, water temperature between 78 F and 80 F. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Decrease the water level to make it easier for your fish to surface. Fast him for 2-3 days then feed bits of cooked and shelled green peas until swimming and defecation are normal. If he remains bloated, prepare a bowl of water at the proper temperature and dissolve 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt for each gallon. Allow for a 15-30 minute swim once or twice daily. In the main tank, use an antibiotic, such ad Kanaplex or Maracyn, to treat infection/fin rot. A conditioner such as StressCoat can also help fins. These products can be found in the aquarium section of the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.

Thanks for reaching out about your fish. Most of the water additives don't get absorbed systemically since fresh water fish do not drink water. A veterinary visit with a fecal sample is recommended to identify possible parasites and then prescribe a treatment. Most likely the medications needs to be top-coated on food and then eaten. Dosage depends on number of fish and estimated biomass (cumulative weight of fish). Good luck.

Maintain pristine water quality via filtration and daily partial water changes. That is the foundation for recovery. Drop the water temp gradually to about 75-76 F. The organism responsible for the infection thrives at temps in the low to mid 80s F. Use a broad spectrum antibiotic containing metronidazole. A Maracyn/Maracyn 2 combo may also help. Choose one treatment or the other. Find these products in the Aquarium section of the local pet store. Follow the label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment. Add an air stone or to to increase oxygenation.

He may have internal parasites. maintain pristine water quality and confirm stable water chemistry. This can be done by using a home test kit or by submitting a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Perform a partial water change, no more than 30% total volume at a time, if indicated. use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Check the water temperature as well, since low temps can affect activity, appetite and digestion in fish. Anywhere between 72 F and 80 F is acceptable. Keeping it at the higher end may aid in digestion and defecation. Consider a broad spectrum parasite medication. You can find one in the Aquarium section at the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated.