Why are my fish still sick after velvet treatment, and tank has algae?

Thanks for reaching out about your aquarium and including photos. Did you test your water quality prior to the water change? Continue to test for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Pristine water quality is needed for health. Are any of the fish new, that could have introduced parasites? Itching/flashing can be due to water quality, external parasites, bacterial or viral infections and other causes. The white lesions on the photo could be fungal infections. A skin scrape and examination under the microscope (at a veterinarian's office) is needed for an attempt to determine a cause. Fungal infections are often secondary problems, so check water quality first. Good luck.

Thanks for reaching out about your oranda. A picture would help in an attempt to identification. External parasites are numerous and a microscopic identification at a veterinary office might be needed. Sub-optimal water quality can irritate the skin, leading to mucous cell hypertrophy. Keep water quality pristine, a veterinary visit is needed to help further. Good luck.

Hi, and thanks for your question. This is a quite concerning presentation and it is likely to be related to water quality. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further. If this answer was helpful please let us know, this will be used to improve our service!

Thanks for reaching out about Fish. Test and correct water quality for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. If all fish are affected, water quality problems the most likely. Alteration can lead to increased mucous production from the skin (white stuff), but fungal dermatitis or parasites are also possible. A veterinary visit is recommended if the water quality if appropriate, to assess and provide a diagnostic/treatment plan. Good luck.

Check the water chemistry. The discoloration could be due to elevated ammonia levels which can cause "burns". Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. The Neons (blue fish) appear to be infected with Ich, a parasite. Treatment is possible with commercial products found in the local Petco. Follow label directions carefully. You will need to treat the entire tank until all traces are gone. Removing a lump from your fish on your own is never recommended. You can cause severe injury. Most broad spectrum antibiotics (Kanaplex, Maracyn, Maracyn 2, etc.) found in the aquarium section of the local Petco should help treat or prevent infection. Choose one and follow label directions. Remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. Maintain pristine water quality via filtration and regular partial water changes to aid in recovery. You can feed frozen worms, just thaw then first in a small cup then place them in the tank.

This could be bacterial or parasitic infection. It is difficult to determine definitively since the image provided is not clear. Fish can be difficult to photograph. Basic care includes checking water quality and chemistry. This can be done using a home test kit or by submitting a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. There should be an absence of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20-60 ppm. pH should be as close to 7 as possible, avoiding large swings. Koi can tolerate a wide range in temperature, but generally do best between 65 F and 75 F. Again, avoid large swings in temperature to prevent stress or shock. If necessary, a partial water change can be done to stabilize chemistry and/or improve water quality. If you have other koi, consider placing this one in a hospital tank to make treatment easier and to prevent spread if the condition is infectious. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt) can be used to reduce stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in recovery. Dissolve 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water in a cup or two of tank water and gently pour it into the tank. Treat for 14 days then reassess the condition. If there is no change, consider a broad spectrum antibiotic or "all in one" treatment. Either can be found in the Aquarium section at Petco. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. All that said, if the spots multiply and appear like tiny grains of salt, it could be an ich infection. In this case the entire tank will require treatment. There are several commercial ich medications that can be used. You will also need to thoroughly vacuum the substrate/gravel in the tank and wipe down all tank furniture.

Those could be copepods. They are typically harmless and difficult to completely eradicate. On the good side, they are a sign of a healthy tank and are useful in eating decaying matter in the aquarium. The brown algae can be due to insufficient lighting or lighting periods. You can wipe down the glass and plants, perform a partial water change and increase lighting. It can take weeks to month to resolve. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Confirm stable water chemistry and quality. Make sure the water temperature is correct as well. Too warm or too cold can cause stress. Look the Jack Dempsey over for signs of injury or infection. Ich, bacterial infection or fungal infection can cause the fish too twitch or shiver. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt or Epsom salt) dissolved at 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water is a great general tonic that can reduce stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in any recovery. The eels should be fine, but the snails should be moved temporarily. You can relocate both to a separate tank to be completely safe. Treat the tank for 10-14 days then reassess the condition of the fish. Perform a partial water change afterwards to reduce salinity before you returns the eels and snails to the tank.