My betta is wiggling, not eating, and seems sick. What's wrong?

Check the water temperature first. Bettas are tropical fish and do best between 78 F and 80 F. Next, check water quality. This can be done by using a home test kit or by submitting a water sample for testing. The local pet store may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence ( 0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform partial water changes if necessary. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Offer an appropriate diet as well. Bettas are carnivorous, so make sure the flake or pellet is not mainly vegetable matter. Hikari makes a great Betta diet in pellet form. You can also offer blood worms, shrimp or Daphnia to add variety to the diet.

Check the water chemistry and water temperature. Aim for 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites with nitrates 30 ppm or below. Water temp should be between 78 F and 80 F. Add only plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt). Add no more than 1 teaspoon per gallon and treat for 10-14 days. Lower the water level by half to make it easier for her to reach the surface. Bettas can breathe room air if necessary. Soak pellets in some garlic juice to stimulate her appetite.

He may be dealing with some swim bladder issues. The swim bladder is what keeps a fish upright and controls buoyancy. Infection, poor water quality or constipation can affect the swim bladder. Perform a water change. Use aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. My choice for conditioners are AmQuel and NovAqua. You can purchase them in most pet stores or fish stores. Bettas are warm water fish and do best between 78 F and 80 F. Anything below 75 F will be stressful. A small tank heater may be necessary to maintain proper temperature. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it in. This will act as a general tonic reducing stress, improving gill function and treating minor infection. Change the water daily to maintain quality and dissolve just enough salt to treat the water being replaced. Fast him for 3 days, then offer small bits of cooked, shelled green peas until defecation and swimming are normal. You can soak the bits in some garlic juice to stimulate his appetite and boost the immune system. Transition to a quality pelleted diet and fast for one day each week to maintain GI health.

Check the water quality. This can be done with a home test kit or you can submit a water sample for testing. Most pet stores or aquarists will do this for free or for a nominal fee. Correct any imbalances as indicated. Check the water temp as well. Aim for 78 F to 80 F. Use a tank heater to prevent temps below 74 F. Offer a good quality pellet such as Hikari BioGold. You can also feed blackworms or bloodworms. Live worms may get him eating. Freeze dried tubifex worms may also stimulate his appetite. If there are no outward signs of bacterial or fungal infection, consider parasites. You can use metronidazole for fish. It is sold in most pet stores in the aquarium section. Follow label directions and gauge his response after treatment. The raised scales are a concern because that can be a symptom of dropsy. Dropsy is common in bettas and usually fatal. It is typically accompanied by a swollen abdomen though. Fish tuberculosis is another serious concern. This is a slow, progressive illness that can kill fish and ruin tanks/bowls. Start with the basics as listed above. Try water changes with conditioned water and offer different foods to get Thorin eating. You can request a consultation to discuss his condition in greater detail and for additional resources.

Check water chemistry first. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20 ppm or less. Perform a partial water change to stabilize water chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. By your description, the issue may be swim bladder disease. This can be caused by infection (bacterial or parasites) or constipation. Maintain water quality as described above. Fast the fish for 3 days then resume feeding bits of cooked and shelled green peas. This will help with constipation. If this doesn't help. you can get a broad spectrum antibiotic from the local pet store. Look in the aquarium section. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment.

Bump the temperature up to 80 F. The warmer water may aid in digestion. Continue feeding bits of cooked, shelled green peas until he is defecating normally and regularly. If internal parasites are a concern, PraziPro or General Cure (by API) may resolve the issue. PraziPro is safe for the snails. If you decide to use General Cure, it would be safest to remove the snails during treatment.

He is "old" for a Betta. Check the water chemistry and temperature. You can use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. The local Petco may do this for free or for a small fee. Aim for an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 20ppm or less. Perform partial water changes to stabilize chemistry and/or to improve water quality. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. The cloudy eyes may be due to infection. Maintaining pristine water quality will help, but you may need a broad spectrum antibiotic as well. Look in the aquarium section of the local Petco for medication. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert during treatment if indicated. Even with treatment, there may be permanent damage to the eyes if the condition has been chronic. The "laying down" is sometimes seen even in healthy fish. They may choose to lay on gravel or the broad leaf of a plant. It may also indicate infection or injury though. If hebisbhavibg difficulty reaching the surface, decrease the water level to make it easier. Bettas need to surface occasionally to get some air.