Why is my betta sick, lethargic, and has white spots? What can I do?

Hi, and thanks for your question. You can actually attach the pics to the question if you like. This description of the lesions could be compatible with a parasite or possibly a bacterial infection. Begin by submitting a water sample for quality testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or a nominal fee. Clinical examination should always include a water quality check, even if you have done so already. Water testing should be performed with a quality test kit, measuring NH4, NO2 and NO3. High ammonia levels, PH imbalances may be responsible for these signs. Oxygen concentration and quality of the filters should be determined as well. If water quality is good and there are no major imbalances, your fish should get examined to look for any sign of bacterial/fungal/parasitic infection and eventually water should be treated. Hope this answer was helpful, but please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.

Thanks for reaching out about Kai and including photos. This could be a solitary Ich lesion (which is unusual, as there are usually multiple) or a hyper-active mucous gland. Check water parameters for pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, correcting any problems. If more lesions appear, a veterinary visit can help with a diagnosis through a microscopic examination of a skin scrape, and therefore prescribe the appropriate treatment. Good luck.

It doesn't have the appearance of ich. He would have white spots, like grains of salt all over him. I don't see fungal growth either in the images. He does have some fin rot though. Check the water chemistry. Use a home test kit or submit a water sample for testing. Most pet stores will do this for free or for a small fee. Confirm an absence (0 ppm) of ammonia and nitrites with nitrates at 40 ppm or less. maintain temp between 78 F and 80 F. This is the optimal range for a Betta. Maintain pristine water quality as well as temperature. Continue with the ParaGuard since it is appropriate for fin rot. Follow label directions. You can also add in a bit of plain aquarium salt (NOT table or Epsom salt) as a general tonic to decrease stress, improve gill function, treat minor infection and aid in recovery. Dissolve no more than 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it into the tan. Treat with salt for 10-14 days then reassess his condition. Partial water changes can be done to reduce salinity. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent stress or shock. You may need to treat the fin rot for longer but don't use salt for more than 2 weeks in a row without a break. Also, if possible, decrease filter flow to reduce the current. Bettas prefer slow moving water. To provide an immune system boost, you can soak pellets in some garlic juice .

Maintain pristine water quality via filtration and regular partial water changes. Use only conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Bettas do best between 78 F and 80 F. You can try an "all in one" product, such as Lifeguard by Tetra, to treat the condition. Find it in the local Petco or online. Follow label directions carefully and remove the carbon filter insert if indicated. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/tetra-lifeguard-all-in-one-freshwater-aquarium-treatment

Check the water quality. This can be done with a home test kit or you can submit a water sample for testing. Most pet stores or aquarists will do this for free or for a nominal fee. Correct any imbalances as indicated. Check the water temp as well. Aim for 78 F to 80 F. Use a tank heater to prevent temps below 74 F. Offer a good quality pellet such as Hikari BioGold. You can also feed blackworms or bloodworms. Live worms may get him eating. Freeze dried tubifex worms may also stimulate his appetite. If there are no outward signs of bacterial or fungal infection, consider parasites. You can use metronidazole for fish. It is sold in most pet stores in the aquarium section. Follow label directions and gauge his response after treatment. The raised scales are a concern because that can be a symptom of dropsy. Dropsy is common in bettas and usually fatal. It is typically accompanied by a swollen abdomen though. Fish tuberculosis is another serious concern. This is a slow, progressive illness that can kill fish and ruin tanks/bowls. Start with the basics as listed above. Try water changes with conditioned water and offer different foods to get Thorin eating. You can request a consultation to discuss his condition in greater detail and for additional resources.

Thanks for reaching out about Flippy. A veterinary visit is highly recommended. Testing water quality for ph, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, correcting any concerns. Water must be dechlorinated for several hours at least, prior to adding to the tank. Laying on the bottom could be a sign of a swim bladder infection and loss of buoyancy. Systemic antibiotics, not water additives, are recommended. Bettafix as a water additive does little for systemic infections. Good luck.

Thanks for reaching out about Neo and including photos. He does appear very ill, don't think age is the reason as two is not old. Age is not a disease, something else is a problem. With sinking to the bottom, a swim bladder infection is possible. Offering peas as a high fiber food works with over-inflation, not this. Systemic antibiotics are needed and therefore a veterinary visit. Water quality needs to be measured, just not changed. Good luck.