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Learn about live insects for reptile feeding, recommended diet & habitat setup. Find the right food, supplies & equipment at your neighborhood Petco.
Updated on April 9th, 2026
Do you have questions about what to feed a reptile? Petco has the answers! Visit us to learn about reptile dietary needs.
Updated on July 17th, 2026
Learn how to care for tropical lizards, recommended diet & habitat setup. Find the right food, supplies & equipment at your neighborhood Petco.
Updated on April 9th, 2026
Learn how to setup your reptiles terrarium to ensure your reptile lives a wholesome & happy life. Shop at your local Petco for all reptile terrarium needs.
Updated on July 17th, 2026
Learn how to care for arid lizards, recommended diet & habitat setup. Find the right food, supplies & equipment at your neighborhood Petco.
Updated on April 9th, 2026
Thanks for reaching out about Oakley. Both Repashy and Pangea are known brands in the industry but there are concerns on whether they are complete diets for a lifetime. It would be recommended to switch from one to the other, periodically. One might have more of one nutrient, where to other might be better supplemented in others. Both should be well fortified in calcium. It is possible to over-supplement with calcium so probably wouldn't add more than once weekly. Good luck.
Updated on September 24th, 2025
Hi, For heat you could do a number of things e.g. place any incandenscent bulb above him, place other types of heaters near the tank etc. Please make sure that the temperature is not too high. As for food, this is more of a problem. If he's used to eating crickets it would be difficult to switch him at once to something else. I assume meal worms or otjer insects are also unavailable? You could very temporarily try some soft cat food but it may not work.
Updated on September 24th, 2025
Some of it depends on the age of the beardie. If young, make sure any live food is small enough for it. Meal works, crickets or even pinkie mice Here's a good recipe for a reptile salad. Basic Salad Recipe 1/2 cup shredded raw green beans 1/2 cup shredded raw orange-fleshed squash (such as acorn, banana, kabocha, spaghetti, and pumpkin) - you can occasionally alternate with carrots 1 medium or 2 small raw shredded parsnips (in areas where these are seasonally hard to find, you can substitute with asparagus or cooked or canned lima, navy or kidney beans that have been well rinsed and minced or mashed. If you use beans, add extra calcium to offset their high phosphorus) * 1/4 cup mashed/minced fruit (strawberries, raspberries, mangos, papaya, figs, cantaloupe, cactus pear) Alfalfa ** Multivitamin and calcium supplements * If parsnips are a seasonal vegetable where you live, you can use 1/2 cup shredded asparagus, trading off with 1/2 cup drained, rinsed, and chopped canned cooked lima beans, plus additional calcium to make up for the lousy calcium:phosphorus ratio in beans. Cooked beans are acceptable for short term use only due to their phosphorous content and other chemicals that can impede the uptake of minerals and trace elements. Asparagus is comparable in protein to parsnip, but does contain oxalates, so should not be a long-term staple. ** The quantity of alfalfa you use will depend upon the alfalfa product you are using. You want to add about 15 grams of protein. That is about 1/2 cup of alfalfa rabbit pellets, or about 1/4 cup or less of alfalfa leaf tea or a tablespoon or so of alfalfa powder. The older the healthy iguana is, the less protein they need, so you may end up using only a couple of teaspoons for an adult iguana. Thoroughly mix all the Basic Salad Recipe ingredients together. Makes about 3.5-4 cups. Add in a multivitamin supplement (any multivitamin supplement for birds or reptiles is fine, but the best, actually, is powder from a crushed Centrum tablet) and a calcium supplement. You do not need to get a calcium supplement that has phosphorous or D3 in it, as the iguana is already getting considerably phosphorous from the plants and multivitamin, and their D3 is best manufactured in their bodies by regular exposure to direct sunlight or special UVB-producing fluorescents. And more good info on husbandry and feeding isnhere. If temperature is not correct they also may not eat. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html
Updated on September 24th, 2025
Use a background to block his view. This may prevent glass surfing or nose rubbing as well as provide more privacy/security. Again, check the temps in his enclosure to make sure it is species appropriate. Offer a variety of crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, silkworms and wax worms. Gut load prey for 24 hours prior to offering. Dust appropriately with vitamins and minerals regularly. He may also benefit from a soak in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. If his appetite does not return after adjustments to environment and diet, have him examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. Submit a stool sample to diagnose intestinal parasites or bacterial overgrowth.
Updated on September 24th, 2025
Often when a reptile doesn’t want to eat, it is a sign that they don’t feel well. The most common reason behind them not feeling well is imperfections in their husbandry and diet. I would recommend consulting an online care sheet to ensure that your husbandry is as perfect as possible. Common areas of imperfection include temperature, lighting, and humidity. I would also recommend having Ash seen by a veterinarian, as they can help to counsel you about Ash’s husbandry as well. In addition to a thorough physical examination, they may recommend diagnostic testing including radiographs (x-rays) and blood work to evaluate systemic health. I hope that gives you a place to start, and thanks for using Petco Pet Education Center, formerly Petcoach!
Updated on September 24th, 2025