My turtle is suddenly scared, hiding, and won't eat. What should I do?

Hello, Reptiles are cold blooded, and require controlled temperatures at all time in captivity. Noor likely became malnourished, dehydrated, and very cold in her time outside of her enclosure. This can lead to many different problems. It is difficult to force turtles to eat, and many require feeding tubes to get nutrition when they are ill. I would recommend taking Noor to a veterinarian. I hope this is helpful.

Thanks for reaching out about Sebastian and including pictures. Points of interest to investigate would be: (1) heat support in the water, (2) nutrition, and (3) water quality. If the water temperature gets too low, turtles will slow and stop eating (acting as if hibernating). The water quality needs to be kept clean to decrease bacterial and algal overgrowth. Regarding nutrition, the package of pellets needs to be changed every 3-4 months as vitamins degrade quickly. Offering diced vegetables and whole fish (goldfish, tetras) can provide exercise and nutrition. If Sebastian remains quiet and lethargic, a visit to a reptilian veterinarian is recommended. Good luck.

Walt likely got too cold when the power went out. I'm not convinced that 10 minutes basking outside would have made him that dehydrated. He may be on his way to getting a respiratory infection. What food(s) has he tried feeding him (turtle sticks, live meal worms, sun-dried worms, shrimp?)? The other option is that when he got cold it stimulated his body to go into hibernation mode. In the wild, sliders do hibernate, but it has to be quite cold and other conditions have to met for captive turtles to successfully hibernate. When they're a bit too chilly, but not cold enough to hibernate, they become inactive and quit eating. This leads to illness, and often death. Your boyfriend needs to make sure that his husbandry is 100% spot on - water temperature, humidity, basking area, etc. If he has a UVB light it needs to be changed every 6 months even if the light is still working. It will stop producing UVB rays and then he is not getting what he needs. So I suggest changing that bulb if that has not been done in the last 6 months. Reptisun 10 is my preference. Here is a great care sheet: http://www.reptilecentre.com/info-yellow-bellied-slider-care-sheet If his husbandry is 100% correct and he tries various other things to feed him and he still isn't eating in a few days he will need to see a vet. Hope this helps. Best wishes.

If you think Bertha may be egg bound, she should be examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp veterinarian as soon as you can get an appointment. In the meantime, check water and ambient temperatures in the tank. Soak her in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. You can add a little liquid calcium supplement to the soak as well.

Thanks for reaching out about your turtle. Removed from the water to a dry enclosure with a warm towel, to prevent drowning. A veterinary visit this morning is highly recommended, as the high water temperatures have probably caused some internal thermal damage, maybe brain swelling. Anti-inflammatories and possible medications to decrease brain swelling. This is an emergency by your description. Good luck.

Check the temps in the enclosure. Low temps can affect appetite in reptiles. A soak in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte can provide warmth and treat or prevent minor dehydration. The loose scutes may be normal shedding or not. An exam would be needed to diagnose any underlying cause. If the condition does not improve, have your tortoise examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles. If you need to find a vet, use the link below. https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

One of the most common reasons for a reptile to have a decreased or absent appetite is because of husbandry. I would recommend starting there, and ensuring that the husbandry is as perfect as possible. Often times, even seemingly minor things can make a big difference for a reptile. For example, it looks like your turtle has a glass enclosure from the picture (I apologize if this is not the case), and often this can be stressful for them as they don't understand the concept of glass. It is recommended to keep them in opaque/non-see-through containers, such as turtle tables or large Rubbermaid containers for example. Alternatively, this may also be a problem that started before you acquired Hades. Reptiles can take a long time to get sick, and then when they show their signs of illness, it can seem to come on suddenly. Due to this, I would recommend taking Hades in for an examination with a veterinarian, as this is a good idea for any new pet, including turtles! At the visit, your veterinarian will go over the husbandry for Hades, and can make recommendations. Additionally, they may recommend radiographs (x-rays) to look at bone quality, as metabolic bone disease is very common in reptiles. They may also recommend blood work and/or a fecal sample as part of a wellness exam to look for any signs of infection, anemia (low red blood cells), to look at organ function, and to evaluate the feces for parasites. If you would like to try husbandry changes first, and want to talk about Hades further prior to your veterinary visit, I would be happy to do a consult with you. I hope this gives you a place to start!