How should I care for my pet tree frog while it's hibernating?

Releasing it would not be recommended and in some locations, may be illegal. You can continue to feed nightcrawlers in addition to commercial frog pellets, brine shrimp, blood worms and small insect prey (nothing wild caught). Frogs are very sensitive to water quality and environmental parameters. Low temps can affect activity and appetite in amphibians and reptiles as can poor water quality. If you can provide the species of frog or an image, we can provide more comprehensive advice.

Green Tree Frogs feed exclusively on insects. You can feed mostly crickets which should be gut-loaded (fed a high-protein, nutritious meal before being offered to the frog) and dusted with a calcium and multivitamin supplement a couple of times a week. Flies, grass hoppers, etc. make good food also.

Check humidity and temperature in the enclosure. Either can affect activity, appetite and digestion. Soak him in a warm solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. A gentle abdominal massage during the soak may stimulate defecation. Be sure to use dechlorinated (or otherwise conditioned) water for the soak. You will need to see your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating amphibians if the appetite does not return.

Clean and sanitize the tank. Replace ALL the substrate with fresh organic topsoil or coco fiber. Do not use vermiculite or perlite. Avoid gravel, sand or wood chips. Ideal temperature ranges between 68F and 78F with the cooler end reserved for nighttime. Mist the cage several times weekly to maintain humidity. Provide a water bowl and clean it daily. Soak him in a tepid (75F) 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will provide warmth and hydration. A cold frog will not eat. Afterwards, offer live food. Something with a lot of movement like nightcrawlers or mealworms. If he still doesn't eat, have him examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles and amphibians.

thanks for reaching out about Autumn. Reptile Magazine has several good articles. Pristine water quality and a well-rounded diet is imperative. Large 55+ gallon aquarium with haul out area, heat lamp for water and basking, UVA and B radiation exposure. A wide variety of insects including crickets, mealworms, earthworms and any other insects from the outdoors or garden, as long as no pesticides are used. Good luck.

Remove her from her main tank and put her in a smaller hospital tank. You can use paper towels for substrate. Change them daily. Increase tank temps to 80 F with a basking spot of about 85 F. Maintain humidity at 70%. Mist her daily and provide a water bowl. Use only dechlorinated water. It she isn't defecating normally, a soak in a honey and water solution may stimulate defecation. A dilute unflavored PediaLyte solution can treat or prevent mild dehydration. Offer appropriately sized prey, no bigger than the space between her eyes. You can also feed bits of nightcrawlers. If the redness and symptoms persist, have her examined by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles and amphibians.

A 29L is a good sized enclosure for this species of tree frog. Juvenile frogs are much more active than adults. As your frog matures, it will "settle down" and spend more time on the ground. You can still use branches and perches to make use of the vertical space. You can keep two in the tank if you choose as long as there isn't a significant size difference. Different species cannot be kept together though. They do not need a night light. They do best with a 12 hours on/off light cycle.