Help! My snake won't eat rats, only mice. How do I get her to switch?

You may want to consider a follow up appointment with your veterinarian to make sure there are no signs of continued infection such as respiratory disease. Also verify that your temperature and humidity are appropriate. My favorite resource for this is www.anapsid.org Sometimes force feeding with a pinkie may stimulate him to start eating. Best of luck and I hope he improves soon. Thank you for using Pet Coach.

It depends on what the snake has been eating already. If the previous owner/breeder feeds live mice/food, then the snake will most likely eat dead food. Some snakes can be trained to eat dead food but it can take some time. Some will never convert to dead/frozen food. You may want to consider getting another type of reptile that does not eat mice. Most snakes will not eat chicken or fish meat. I hope this has helped. Thanks for using pet coach.

If he can eat baby rats, feed him baby rats. Going off food before, during,or after a shed is normal. Confirm proper temperature and consider covering the cage or placing him in a pillowcase with prey at the next meal time. If he doesn't eat, wait 5-7 days then try again. Keep him hydrated and stress free in between feedings.

Thanks for reaching out about Ivory and including a photo. You are correct that snakes can be finicky eaters during weather changes. If you feed mice, try offering rat pups: to snakes they smell and taste differently. If that doesn't work, a veterinary visit is recommended as intestinal parasites or infections are common. Good luck.

Consider bumping him up to a juvenile rat (or small adult) once a week. An exam with an experienced herp veterinarian would also be recommended to diagnose illness or injury. Frequently, either may result in behavioral changes or sudden aggression.

Thank you for reaching out about your ball python - she is really cute! There are a few things you can try/check for the appetite. Often times, when we are seeing issues with appetite, the first thing we try to do is check the husbandry and ensure that it is as perfect as it can be. Sometimes in between seasons the temperatures can get off in the enclosure, and I would recommend checking that first. Also, the humidity can affect the shedding intervals, in addition to the temperature. I would recommend evaluating the temperatures in the enclosure with digital thermometers to ensure that they are appropriate. Also, based on how she looks in the photos, she appears to be in fair body condition, so she may also be regulating herself as far as her weight/appetite goes. This would be a bit of an exception for a ball python, as most of them will overeat and become overweight. But, there are exceptions to the rule and maybe she is one of them! For the prey items - I like that you are using a separate container, and that you are warming the prey items in warm water. Please ensure that the water gets them to body temperature for rodents, which is around 100-102F. Often snakes will eat prey items that are cooler than that, but if a snake is being picky I try to encourage owners to get them measure the temperature to ensure it is warm enough. I hope that this gives you a place to start, and if she doesn't eat despite all of these changes, I would recommend a veterinary visit for her!

Feed your ball python an appropriately sized rodent once a week. "Appropriately sized" means prey items that are no bigger in circumference than the ball python is at its largest circumference. A snake that is eating twice a week is likely eating food that is too small so yes, I agree with you, you should probably increase the size of prey. Hope this helps. Best wishes.